Useful Information

Hinoemata Kabuki: A Hidden Gem of Japanese Folk Culture

Hinoemata Kabuki: A Hidden Gem of Japanese Folk Culture
The Hinoemata Kabuki theatre is a slice of living history,
carrying on a tradition that began in the 1600s.

 

Charming thatched-roof buildings, rice fields, and country forest roads add an extra layer of charm. Rural Fukushima really feels like a storybook destination, a place where Japanese folk culture still feels alive and strong.

 

A remote village surrounded by nature

Surrounded by gorgeous nature, the village is incredibly picturesque. Before modern roads and forms of transportation were developed, Hinoemata village was cut off from civilization each year for a number of months due to heavy snowfall in the area that made travel impossible or extremely dangerous. People in the village developed unique ways to survive and live amongst nature.

The spectacular Byoubu Boulders are a quick stop on the drive into the village.

 

The village has a population of just over 500 today that is mostly made up of the descendants of three groups of people who settled here. The first to arrive were those with the surname “Hoshi”, who arrived in 794. Next were those with the surname “Hirano” whose exact arrival period is unknown, however, what is known is that they were fleeing from some conflict. Leading to the village being known as a place where people ran away to. Finally, those with the surname “Tachibana” arrived in 1569.

The village has a strong sense of community which makes sense, as the population has survived and endured for hundreds of years together! 

 

The Origins of Hinoemata Kabuki

Let me transport you back in time to the 1600s, before modern technology, way before smartphones and computers. Before electricity!! The villagers in Hinoemata lived a life surrounded by gorgeous nature on the outskirts of a vast wilderness, modern-day Oze National Park.

Nearby Oze National Park is a wonderland of hiking trails…

 

Although they were surrounded by beautiful nature, they had few creative outlets. Villagers needed to focus on farming, fishing, and hunting to keep the village strong and survive the cold winter months. The already remote village became a fortress in winter when paths were covered in heaps of snow, locking everyone either in or out of the village for several months each year.

Some villagers travelled south for work or trade,
and they discovered something magical:
Kabuki theatre shows!

 

Mesmerized by the costumes and storytelling, those villagers brought home tales of what they had seen. Local villagers soon began putting on their own shows. Practicing in the fields and in their homes, and hand painting or crafting the elaborate costumes and sets to put on several spectacular shows to put on in the warmer months.

Soon, the rich tradition of Hinoemata Kabuki was born!

 

Theatre for all

Kabuki theatre is thought to have originated in Japan early on in the Edo period that lasted from 1603 to 1867. Originally female and male actors graced the stages, however, in 1629 women were officially banned from the stage. This was only ten years before the start of Sakoku (1639-1853) when Japan isolated itself by closing the borders.

Since 1629, all characters male or female had to be played by men. I was surprised to hear that even today, women are forbidden from performing in official Kabuki performances. Despite this, Hinoemata Kabuki includes female Kabuki actresses!

The cast of both male and female kabuki performers
taking their final bow of the evening.

 

Hinoemata Kabuki is not official Kabuki theatre, despite being heavily inspired by Kabuki shows. This allows them to bypass strict rules that other Kabuki theatres have to observe, allowing for a unique take on this staple of Japanese culture.

 

A community dedicated to carrying on tradition

We learned that the female actor who was meant to portray the grandmother character in last week’s performance suffered an injury that left her unable to perform! Everyone was worried now, with one character short.

So, one senior actor from the village, a 72-year-old man, recognized the dilemma and decided to step up to help. He had actually retired some time previously due to joint pain in his knee. So, to perform to the best of his ability, this 72-year-old man did daily stretches and strengthening exercises to prepare for the performance. In the end, he managed to beautifully portray the sweet grandmother.

Through the dedication of this remote community,
their traditions have been preserved for hundreds of years,
and hopefully, for hundreds more to come. 

 

Hinoemata Kabuki Today

Thanks to the creation of new roads and tunnels access to this remote village has improved, but the village still retains its own unique culture. People in Hinoemata village take a lot of pride in their traditions and history, passing on this tradition to each new generation, they have been able to preserve something truly special.

Some time ago, the stage was designated as a National Important Tangible Folk Cultural Property, and the shows have been designated as an important intangible folk cultural asset.

Although the original purpose of Hinoemata Kabuki was entertainment by locals for locals, today anyone is welcome to attend. Despite the small population, the town has an active and cheerful atmosphere that is very welcoming.

The over 100-year-old thatched roof of the stage had
flowers growing out of the top
The curtain used during the show we saw was hand sewn
and painted over 100 years ago by women in the village

 

Visiting Hinoemata village was absolutely incredible, and I can't wait to visit again someday.

For a village of just over 500, I didn't expect to find such a warm and lively environment. This is a community that supports each other, and they really seem to love their home and what they do. 

For information on how to visit click here, or contact us via email or social media and we'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Latest posts

  1. Destination Spotlight

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath: A Forest Walk in Nishigo

    The tranquil village of Nishigo (西郷村) is situated just west of Shirakawa City, a naturally abundant region at the south of Fukushima Prefecture. We met with a group of community leaders, tour guides and members of the local government to take a Foothpath Tour around its many sights.What is a Footpath Tour?Inspired by the British culture of taking countryside walks in spots of natural greenery, Fukushima Footpath Tours encourage visitors to local areas to wander around and explore the nearby region.In particular, by walking through smaller and lesser known areas, eating at local restaurants, and interacting with town residents, you can play a role in Fukushima's diaster recovery efforts.A big part of the intrigue is visiting an area that people are less likely to frequent than famous tourist sites and discovering interesting places - perfect for people who like taking photos!Although there are self-guided tours available - take a look at our guides for Katsurao and Tamura - our tour featured about twenty visitors, and was led by a local long-term resident.Getting Back to NatureMy outstanding impression of our tour - and this, suitably enough, reminds me of similar walks back in the UK - was the abundance of woodland and the fantastic scenery.Our group worked its way through narrow corridors of beautiful pine trees, the terrain occasionally sloping up into the canopy, and wherever we went, we stumbled on to something interesting. Most striking was when we came to a clearing on the banks of the Abukuma River.We took a break here to take in the scenery. Later, when we shared our opinions of the tour, this was the highlight for many of us, thanks to the calm atmosphere and relaxing sound of the flowing river.Some people took this time to skip stones or try out the tree swing.Hidden TreasuresOne of the benefits of having a local resident show you around is that wherever you go, you can ask questions about the things you stumble across. Our guide also often pointed out local stores and workshops and told us about the crafts or folk art that they specialised in.The deeper we went into the woods, we also found some old abandoned houses, which had an intriguing, eerie atmosphere, and the local Christian church.A Well-Earned RestBy the time we made it back to base camp, we'd been walking for about two hours, doing a loop of the main woodland area of Nishigo. We were starting to run low on energy, making it the perfect time for lunch - our guide had been cooking since before we arrived, and a huge pot of Japanese curry had been bubbling the entire time we'd been walking.That meant the flavours had infused deeply into the sauce, and combined with the use of local Nishigo vegetables and rice, this was exactly what we needed after a long walk.Our tour was a really valuable experience - for me, the main attraction was having the chance to visit somewhere most tourists wouldn't usually go, learning about the area from someone who knows it well, and enjoying the peaceful woodland atmosphere.More informationInterested in trying a Footpath Tour for yourself? You can learn more here (please be aware that this page is in Japanese). 

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath: A Forest Walk in Nishigo
  2. Destination Spotlight

    Among a Sea of Clouds – Climbing Mt. Issaikyo

    Learn more about Mt. Issaikyo on our dedicated webpage. Despite Japan being such a mountainous country, and having lived here for several years, I was surprised to realise I’d never climbed to the summit of a Japanese mountain before. But that all changed recently when I attempted – and defeated, just about – the rugged trip up Mt. Issaikyo, one of Fukushima’s most popular hikes.Here's all the information about not only my trip, but how you can take on this challenge as well.Base Camp: JododairaOverlooking the Jododaira Plateau, the summit of Mt. Issaikyo (1,949m) is one of several possible trips from the Jododaira Visitor Center to different areas of the surrounding Azuma-Bandai mountain range.Many visitors head for the Kamanuma pond to the west or Okenuma pond to the south, both of which offer spectacular views over the water and are particularly stunning when the leaves change colours in autumn. Both of these trips, as well as the climb up to the nearby Mt. Azuma-Kofuji crater, are shorter and less intensive walks accessible to any experience level.The nearby Visitor Center is also a great spot to enjoy lunch; there is a traditional shokudo (canteen) style restaurant that serves classic Japanese staples like curry and ramen. There’s also a souvenir shop, a great place to pick up snacks or Fukushima goods like the iconic akabeko red cow.The Jododaira area in general is well known as being a volcanic one – a major eruption from Mt. Azuma-Kofuji in 1888 created hundreds of lakes, including the popular Goshiki-numa, and the hot mountain spring water serves nearby onsen hotels to this day. Sometimes you’ll see local construction staff wearing gas masks to protect against volcanic gases when exposed for long working days.The Climb: Leg DayAs a first-time hiker, I was a little apprehensive about the journey to the summit, but the initial stretch of the journey was easy – a leisurely walk along the boardwalk through the marshlands heading into the foothills.From there, the path begins to become rockier, steeper and less steady, and this largely continued for the remainder of the hike. There are plenty of natural rest stops on the way, however, including a mountain hut with toilets and medical supplies in case of an emergency.Also, this route provides fantastic views over Azuma-Kofuji. Although it was easy to feel some jealousy towards the visitors who chose the easier hike (only 10 minutes up the steps from Jododaira, then a 45 minute stroll around the crater), the gorgeous weather made for some beautiful photos.Although the volcanic crater is visible further up Mt. Issaikyo, on occasion it was obscured by the rocky slope or by the shifting cloud cover, so the best photo spot was probably somewhere halfway up the ascent.This was also where we met many hikers coming back down the mountain in the opposite direction, many of whom greeted us warmly and wished us luck on our climb.The SummitBy the time we made it to the top, our tired legs and lungs certainly needed a rest, but we were rewarded with breathtaking views of pristine white clouds stretching as far as the eye could see. In contrast to the view from Azuma-Kofuji, which looks across the green expanse of Fukushima City, being surrounded by clouds made it feel like we’d stepped into another world.From here, we wandered slightly to the western part of the summit, where from over a gravelly slope we spied the view that attracts intrepid hikers from all over Japan.Known as Majo-no-Hitomi or ‘The Witch’s Eye’, this flawless lake of crystal blue is truly a sight to behold, and definitely made the tough climb worthwhile.The Descent... in the Wrong DirectionTempted for a closer look, we headed down the steep slopes that lead off the summit. The grip underfoot here can be rocky and unsteady, so this was where my hiking boots came most in handy. Once we got into the more forested areas again, the path occasionally fell away into a slight drop, too, so some very light mountaineering was required.The journey from the summit down to the Witch’s Eye took about thirty minutes, and again we were awestruck:The beauty of the lakefront was even more striking up close, making it the perfect place to stop and recharge our batteries with a quick lunch by the water. We spent another half an hour down here, taking a much-needed rest and enjoying the perfect summer weather.All that was left was to climb Mt. Issaikyo for the second time on the day, and we would be on our way home...By the time we made it back to Jododaira, the fine weather from earlier has dissipated and a deep fog had settled in.The round trip from Jododaira to the summit of Mt. Issaikyo, down to the Witch’s Eye, and back again, took us roughly five and a half hours (stopping for 30mins for lunch), and saw us walk the equivalent of 7.4km.Looking to climb Mt. Issaikyo for yourself? Some important advice: Wear sunscreen! Despite the shaded areas, large parts of the hike are exposed to the elements. Bring plenty of water, and snacks or lunch to keep your energy up! Hiking boots are highly recommended. The mountain is closed to climbers in winter.Looking for more hikes in Fukushima? Consider Mt. Adatara or Mt. Bandai.

    Among a Sea of Clouds – Climbing Mt. Issaikyo
  3. Useful Information

    How to Enjoy Fruit Picking in Fukushima: The Ultimate Guide

    Fukushima Prefecture has been called the ‘Fruit Kingdom’ for its abundance of orchards – in particular, the western half of Fukushima City is overloaded with fruit farms of all kinds and colours. This long strip of farmland is known as the ‘Fruit Line’, with over 20 orchards located in this region alone, and is one of the best places in Japan to enjoy a leisurely fruit picking experience during your trip.Unlike fruit picking in western countries, which is often an all-you-can-pick experience, fruit picking in Japan more closely resembles all-you-can-eat. You are usually given a set time period after you arrive – likely 30 minutes to an hour – during which you’re welcome to pick and eat as much fruit as you like. You’re asked not to take any fruit home with you from the picking area, although most orchards have a shop where the best of recent batches can be bought, often at a lower price than supermarkets.Choose Your SeasonOne of the unique features of an area with so many orchards – and a variable four-season climate like Fukushima’s – is that there’s something delicious in season almost the whole year round. Since Fukushima is Japan’s second-largest exporter of peaches, they are one of the prefecture’s biggest symbols, and you’ll see them on billboards and posters wherever you go. That makes peach-picking season – roughly mid-July through September – one of the most popular times to visit the Fruit Line, and the peaches are first-rate no matter which orchard you visit.Also extremely popular is strawberry picking, available from November all the way through to May, and apple picking is also a big hit between August and December. These are the main exports of the famous Fruit Line, but depending on the season you can visit and taste everything from cherries and blueberries in summer to grapes and Japanese pears (nashi) in autumn.What to ExpectThe procedure is slightly different for each orchard – some stores have a ticket vending machine, others you pay at the front counter – but on the whole, orchard staff are very familiar with overseas visitors and will be happy to help you. During the fruit picking experience, a member of the fruit picking staff will explain how to recognise the difference between ripe fruit and non-ripe, and many orchards also have fruit on nearby tables that has been recently picked and is also free for you to eat. Depending on the fruit you’re picking, you may also be given a bucket (for example, for peach skins or pits) and a small knife to cut fruit or peel skin (although fruits like peaches and apples are arguably sweeter with the skin still on). Although English explanations are rarer, it’s relatively easy to understand the staff via gestures and demonstrations.After your time is up, retire to the main shop of the orchard to browse the local products – juices and jams are especially popular and make for good gifts. Marusei Orchard in particular boasts an onsite café that uses their own produce in a variety of sweet treats and parfaits, and there are pictures to help you decide.Getting to the Fruit LineSince buses are available but infrequent, and the Fruit Line is littered with orchards run by different families and companies, using a car or bicycle offers more freedom to explore the area and enjoy the local scenery. Here are our recommendations for getting to the Fruit Kingdom for yourself...Car RentalRenting a car in Japan is an excellent way to get around, and the sign-up process is surprisingly easy. In Fukushima City there are three rental stores close to the west exit of the bullet train station: the JR rental store located near the west exit bus stops; the Toyota store opposite the west exit courtyard; and the Orix store one block further west. All three offer single-day rentals (small ‘kei’ cars have four seats and are the most affordable option) and can be booked online with English support.On the day of the rental, go to the store and state your name. After checking your paperwork and ID, the store staff will ask you to inspect the car for damage, and mark any scratches or dents on their inspection sheet so you’re not charged when returning the vehicle. If required, the staff can also change the car’s navigation system to English.In order to drive in Japan, visitors must obtain an International Driver’s Permit and keep it on their person at all times while driving. You also must show the permit to staff during the rental process.JR Rent-a-car / Toyota / OrixBicycle RentalExploring the countryside on a rental bicycle is one of the best ways to experience Japan – when the weather is nice – and it’s a great way to ‘hop’ multiple orchards if you’re looking to peruse the local products. Despite being ringed to the west by the Azuma mountain range, the Fruit Line is largely flat with a splendid green atmosphere, with most roads being flanked by fruit trees.As an example, if going to Marusei Orchard, take the Izaka Line to its final station of Iizaka-onsen (approx. 20mins), and rent cycles at the station. From there, take a leisurely bike ride headed west for about 10-15 minutes until you arrive at the orchard. (This itinerary would also work for visiting any orchard on the Fruit Line by bicycle.)TaxiTaxis are plentiful and available from the west exit of Fukushima Station, with drivers very familiar with the layout of the Fruit Line and able to drop you at any orchard of your choice. If returning to Fukushima Station, the orchard staff would be able to call a taxi to pick you up. However, since a round trip to the west of the city would likely cost around 7,000 yen – roughly the same price of a rental car for the day – it may be worth considering driving yourself or taking a train and renting bicycles.To learn more about the Fruit Kingdom and book your spot, visit our reservation page.

    How to Enjoy Fruit Picking in Fukushima: The Ultimate Guide
Show All (128)
Top