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All Aboard for Sake and Scenic Views

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All Aboard for Sake and Scenic Views

Fukushima is known as a treasure trove of Japanese sake, but did you know that sake can also be an exciting part of getting around the prefecture as well? Recently, more and more travelers are enjoying the luxurious pleasures of sake on the trains in Fukushima as they view the beautiful vistas passing by. There is even a word in Japanese for this practice now, nomi-tetsu, a portmanteau of the Japanese words for drinking and train. If you’re interested in trying nomi-tetsu yourself, we recommend taking the Oza-Toro-Tembo train.

The three parts of the name refer to the three areas of the train: the oza carriage (which has a tatami-floor), the torokko (tram) carriage, and the tembo (observation deck) carriage. The Oza-Toro-Tembo train runs on the Aizu Railway line during selected days of the peak tourist seasons. Unlike normal trains in Japan which run through urban areas, this special train for tourists features beautiful rural views, such as the many flowers blooming in springtime or the accumulating snowfall in winter. These views are sure to bring out the delicious taste of the sake even more.

Aizu Railway is local train line that connects Aizu-Wakamatsu City with the Minamiaizu area. Aizu Railway trains are usually comprised of only one or two cars at a time. While used by locals on weekdays, the line becomes quite festive on when the Oza-Toro-Tembo train runs through the beautiful natural vistas along the Agano River and rustic farming villages. There are also many tourist destinations along the Aizu Railway route, so there is the option of boarding without a particular destination in mind and getting off en route on a whim to enjoy walking through the towns.

The floor-seating carriage does away with normal seats and is designed after the traditional Japanese living room, creating a very relaxing environment. In the wintertime, there is even a kotatsu heater and table combination, long favored in Japan for warming the feet in cold weather. Meanwhile, the tram carriage is windowless and open to the air, allowing you to enjoy a more dynamic view. You can feel the crisp mountain breeze against your skin, and take great photos, making it particularly popular with camera enthusiasts. Finally, the observation deck carriage features limited seating in the form of reclining seats that allow passengers to enjoy the beautiful vistas in a more private environment.

Passengers can eat and drink in each of these cars, so the ability to casually enjoy some sake during the journey is particularly appreciated by sake aficionados. Thus, by riding the Oza-Toro-Tembo, the trip to your destination, normally a time spent in various stages of boredom, is transformed into an attraction in its own right with the ability to eat and drink while watching the scenery. It is without a doubt that your time on this train will become yet one more unforgettable memory of your trip.

Japanese sake, or rice wine, is an alcoholic beverage which presents a different flavor depending on its temperature and the food accompanying it. For that reason, it is typically consumed in small sips using a tiny cup called an ochoko. Sake is always specially brewed to go well with local cuisine, so we recommend looking for something local to Fukushima when selecting the snacks to go with your sake. We particularly recommend nishin-no-sanshozuke (pickled dried herring with leaves of Japanese pepper).

The route of the Oza-Toro-Tembo train connects mountain villages within the Aizu region, allowing you to enjoy a more relaxing train experience quite unlike the crowded urban commuter trains Japan is famous for. Not only can you absorb views of the changing seasons through the train windows, but you can also observe local people going about their daily lives.

While it is possible to purchase sake and snacks on the Oza-Toro-Tembo train itself, it is perhaps better to avail yourself of the more numerous options available at Aizuwakamatsu Station, which features an abundance of gift shops as well. There is also a sake brewery near Aizu Tajima Station, the final stop on the line, which would be another interesting place to visit.

Please come and enjoy a unique travel experience, rare even in Japan, on the Oza-Toro-Tenmbo train!

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  1. Destination Spotlight

    A Guide to the Aizu Festival – And How to Join Yourself

    If, like me, you’ve been watching Shogun on Disney+ and been blown away by its dramatic depiction of Japan’s Sengoku (warring states) era, you might be interested in learning more about samurai history during your trip to Japan.Fortunately, there are plenty of options for someone looking to get involved with samurai culture.Tsurugajo Castle severely damaged after the Siege of Aizu in 1868.The Shogun’s Last StandOne of the best places for this is the historic city of Aizu-Wakamatsu on the west side of Fukushima Prefecture. Before the advent of prefectures in the Meiji Restoration, this region was ruled by the Aizu Domain, a powerful clan of samurai who remained loyal to the shogun even after ruling authority was returned to the Emperor in the 1860s.This culminated in the Boshin War of 1868, when imperial forces moved north and besieged Tsurugajo Castle at the heart of the Aizu Domain’s sphere of influence. Though the defenders were ultimately defeated by the Emperor’s modernised troops, the fortress remained standing, and this would be remembered as one of the final battlefields of Japan’s shogunate history, before it became what we recognise as ‘modern’ Japan.The Aizu FestivalAlthough Aizu is now incorporated into the wider Fukushima Prefecture, the roots to its powerful ancestor run deep in this part of the country. Local people come together every September to hold the Aizu Festival, honouring the warriors who walked these roads centuries ago with a series of events, processions and performances.Most notable is the parade on the Sunday of the festival. Schools, organisations and local residents of all ages dress in the traditional garb of every strata of Aizu clan society, and walk through the city streets waving to hundreds of attendees. Possibly most striking are the samurai lords, who proceed on horseback.Popular actress Ayase Haruka, who played the ‘Japanese Joan-of-Arc’ Nijima Yae in an NHK drama in 2013, reprises her role every year in the procession and gives a speech before the main parade.The procession starts with a short walk through the grounds of Tsurugajo Castle itself, leading to an opening ceremony held on the lawn under the shadow of the fortress.The samurai lords sit together on the dais, while an announcer heralds each samurai troop that enters the field. This also includes Western historical figures of import and significant noblewomen of the time in traditional dress.Once all the participants have entered and taken their seats, the opening ceremony takes place, with speeches from the city mayor and visiting dignitaries, samurai performances, and gunnery displays.This ceremony is also viewable to the general public, although it’s best to get to the castle early as the spectators’ area typically gets busy.How to Join the ProcessionThe 2024 rendition of the Aizu Festival was beset by heavy rain, but visitors still turned out in huge numbers to watch the procession. This also included an international troop comprised of local residents from a variety of countries: England, Scotland, Canada, the US, Australia, Taiwan and Japan.This experience, organised by a local tour company, is aimed at making Japanese culture more accessible to residents and visitors from overseas. It also included an English-speaking guide, who explained to us not only about the history of the area, but helped with logistical elements – how to dress in the traditional gear, where to go, and how to put our swords away properly...Our troop dressed in the dark navy armour of foot soldiers of the Aizu gunnery units, who were trained both in muskets for ranged combat and katana-style samurai swords for melee. As such, each soldier of the troop was given one of each, as well as a banner of the Aizu Domain (which, for the record, is very easy to bump against door frames and street signs).With the onset of the bad weather, the festival organisers made the difficult decision to protect the traditional armour from water damage with protective rain gear. Although it took away some of the mystique of the samurai atmosphere, it was better than the parade being cancelled altogether, and the rain made for some dramatic photos.Despite the weather, we were cheered on relentlessly by local people throughout the parade route. The main street of Aizu has covered sidewalks, so it was along this route that saw the most spectators, and where the samurai troops performed their main war cries.Overall, we walked for a little over two hours, but including the time to get changed and the opening ceremony, we were in Aizu from about 8:00 in the morning to around 13:00 at lunchtime.The international troop will be recruiting in 2025, too, so if you’re looking to join, feel free to send us an email to i-info@tif.ne.jp and we’ll keep you posted when bookings open.Visiting AizuFor more information about the festival, see our page here.Looking for more samurai experiences in Japan? Try the monthly kengido experience, learning samurai sword techniques in a historic dojo in the mountains.

    A Guide to the Aizu Festival – And How to Join Yourself
  2. Destination Spotlight

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath: A Forest Walk in Nishigo

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  3. Destination Spotlight

    Among a Sea of Clouds – Climbing Mt. Issaikyo

    Learn more about Mt. Issaikyo on our dedicated webpage. Despite Japan being such a mountainous country, and having lived here for several years, I was surprised to realise I’d never climbed to the summit of a Japanese mountain before. But that all changed recently when I attempted – and defeated, just about – the rugged trip up Mt. Issaikyo, one of Fukushima’s most popular hikes.Here's all the information about not only my trip, but how you can take on this challenge as well.Base Camp: JododairaOverlooking the Jododaira Plateau, the summit of Mt. Issaikyo (1,949m) is one of several possible trips from the Jododaira Visitor Center to different areas of the surrounding Azuma-Bandai mountain range.Many visitors head for the Kamanuma pond to the west or Okenuma pond to the south, both of which offer spectacular views over the water and are particularly stunning when the leaves change colours in autumn. Both of these trips, as well as the climb up to the nearby Mt. Azuma-Kofuji crater, are shorter and less intensive walks accessible to any experience level.The nearby Visitor Center is also a great spot to enjoy lunch; there is a traditional shokudo (canteen) style restaurant that serves classic Japanese staples like curry and ramen. There’s also a souvenir shop, a great place to pick up snacks or Fukushima goods like the iconic akabeko red cow.The Jododaira area in general is well known as being a volcanic one – a major eruption from Mt. Azuma-Kofuji in 1888 created hundreds of lakes, including the popular Goshiki-numa, and the hot mountain spring water serves nearby onsen hotels to this day. Sometimes you’ll see local construction staff wearing gas masks to protect against volcanic gases when exposed for long working days.The Climb: Leg DayAs a first-time hiker, I was a little apprehensive about the journey to the summit, but the initial stretch of the journey was easy – a leisurely walk along the boardwalk through the marshlands heading into the foothills.From there, the path begins to become rockier, steeper and less steady, and this largely continued for the remainder of the hike. There are plenty of natural rest stops on the way, however, including a mountain hut with toilets and medical supplies in case of an emergency.Also, this route provides fantastic views over Azuma-Kofuji. Although it was easy to feel some jealousy towards the visitors who chose the easier hike (only 10 minutes up the steps from Jododaira, then a 45 minute stroll around the crater), the gorgeous weather made for some beautiful photos.Although the volcanic crater is visible further up Mt. Issaikyo, on occasion it was obscured by the rocky slope or by the shifting cloud cover, so the best photo spot was probably somewhere halfway up the ascent.This was also where we met many hikers coming back down the mountain in the opposite direction, many of whom greeted us warmly and wished us luck on our climb.The SummitBy the time we made it to the top, our tired legs and lungs certainly needed a rest, but we were rewarded with breathtaking views of pristine white clouds stretching as far as the eye could see. In contrast to the view from Azuma-Kofuji, which looks across the green expanse of Fukushima City, being surrounded by clouds made it feel like we’d stepped into another world.From here, we wandered slightly to the western part of the summit, where from over a gravelly slope we spied the view that attracts intrepid hikers from all over Japan.Known as Majo-no-Hitomi or ‘The Witch’s Eye’, this flawless lake of crystal blue is truly a sight to behold, and definitely made the tough climb worthwhile.The Descent... in the Wrong DirectionTempted for a closer look, we headed down the steep slopes that lead off the summit. The grip underfoot here can be rocky and unsteady, so this was where my hiking boots came most in handy. Once we got into the more forested areas again, the path occasionally fell away into a slight drop, too, so some very light mountaineering was required.The journey from the summit down to the Witch’s Eye took about thirty minutes, and again we were awestruck:The beauty of the lakefront was even more striking up close, making it the perfect place to stop and recharge our batteries with a quick lunch by the water. We spent another half an hour down here, taking a much-needed rest and enjoying the perfect summer weather.All that was left was to climb Mt. Issaikyo for the second time on the day, and we would be on our way home...By the time we made it back to Jododaira, the fine weather from earlier has dissipated and a deep fog had settled in.The round trip from Jododaira to the summit of Mt. Issaikyo, down to the Witch’s Eye, and back again, took us roughly five and a half hours (stopping for 30mins for lunch), and saw us walk the equivalent of 7.4km.Looking to climb Mt. Issaikyo for yourself? Some important advice: Wear sunscreen! Despite the shaded areas, large parts of the hike are exposed to the elements. Bring plenty of water, and snacks or lunch to keep your energy up! Hiking boots are highly recommended. The mountain is closed to climbers in winter.Looking for more hikes in Fukushima? Consider Mt. Adatara or Mt. Bandai.

    Among a Sea of Clouds – Climbing Mt. Issaikyo
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