Destination Spotlight

Crossing Mugenkyo Ravine by Ferry (Mugenkyo no Watashi)

Crossing Mugenkyo Ravine by Ferry (Mugenkyo no Watashi)

I had seen some amazing photos of the Mugenkyo Ferry (夢幻峡の渡し）passing through the beautiful emerald water of the Tadami River, and was excited to go and experience the ferry ride for myself. So I headed off to Mishima Town to meet Hoshi san, who had kindly offered to show me around.

MY EXPERIENCE OF THE MUGENKYO FERRY (MUGENKYO NO WATASHI)

The ferry leaves from a tiny jetty from near the public hot spring facility called ‘Tsuru no Yu’. The jetty was a bit hard to see from the car park of Tsuru no Yu, but I spotted it when I walked to the back of the public hot spring, and followed some steps down to the water’s edge.

From here, the jetty was easy to spot, because it was very close by to an onsen shrine (onsen jinja 温泉神社) that caught my eye. This has got to be one of the most picturesque shrines I’ve been to.

After I took photos at the shrine, I continued on to a small building next to the jetty. This building was complete with an odd wooden structure, from which water was streaming. Upon closer inspection (and after getting our hands burned) my colleague and I deduced that this was in fact the source of the local hot spring water!

It wasn’t long before Hoshi san made his dramatic entrance on his wooden boat. He looked really awesome in his sunglasses and happi robe (happi 法被).

After getting kitted up with a life jacket, Hoshi took me across the ravine.

It was so relaxing to be taken across the surface of the Tadami River. It struck me while taking the ferry across the ravine that I couldn’t hear any of the busy noises of the city that can make you feel stressed or distracted. In fact, the only sounds I could hear were the wind, the birds and the slow rhythmic paddling of Hoshi san’s oar gliding through the surface of the river.

Hoshi san’s recommendation for enjoying the best Mugenkyo Ferry experience is to lie flat on your back in the middle of the boat and have a nap. I’m not sure whether his customers can actually do this, or if it’s just something he’s been able to try, but it sounds amazing!

The journey to the other side of Mishima Town takes 30 minutes one way, during which time you get some great views. It was really cool to see buildings like the Tsuru no Yu onsen from such a different angle. The reflections looked amazing.

Tsuru no Yu Onsen is a great hot spring in Oku-Aizu area of Fukushima Prefecture. Unfortunately, I have yet to take a dip, but I definitely want to go soon. Knowing how relaxing it was to be in the ferry, I can just imagine how amazing it would feel to chill out in the onsen looking out over the Tadami River.

One thing that visitors should note about visiting Tsuru no Yu Onsen, however, is that the open-air baths (rotenburo 露天風呂）are totally exposed to the elements. Seeing as the only thing surrounding the onsen is a river, usually this isn’t an issue, but I can say first hand that people in the open-air baths can definitely be seen from the ferry!

I actually had to edit the naked guys who were sitting on the edge of the bath out of the photo below…

These sightseeing ferries are made from boats that were used by local people crossing between areas of Mishima area over 50 years ago. For Japanese people, riding in one of these boats is very nostalgic.

The running of sightseeing ferries between the different areas of Mishima began in 2010, but was halted in 2011 when the Great East Japan Earthquake caused infrastructural damage to Mishima and surrounding areas. The ferry service was restarted in 2017.

If you visit the area and travel on the Mugenkyo Ferry during the early morning in summer, you’re likely to get to see picturesque mist atop the Tadami River. This makes for some very beautiful photos.

The Mugenkyo Ravine Ferries are operated by Kenko Hoshi, an extremely talented local photographer who specialises in capturing the beauty of Oku-Aizu and the Tadami Line. Kenko Hoshi has an incredible amount of energy and enthusiasm for his hometown.

Below are just a couple of photos taken of the Mugenkyo Ferry by Hoshi san. It’s quite possible that if you have seen photographs of the Tadami River No. 1 Bridge that they were probably taken by him.

Hoshi san was brought up in Mishima Town, on the opposite side to where visitors start their journey. Hoshi san’s hometown area is now what is known as a ‘haison 廃村’ or ‘ghost town’.

The ground on which the town was built is prone to landslides. As a result, the area has fallen victim to a number of related disasters over the centuries. A really intense landslide hit Mishima in 1964 and finally forced the local people to move to the opposite side of the Tadami River. Nothing was left behind, save for one traditional farmhouse built 300 years ago, a shrine, temple and Buddhist statue.

I wholeheartedly recommend this experience as something to try out when traveling on the Tadami Line, as it is easily accessible from Hayato Station. It’s a must-visit for those hoping to see countryside Japan during their visit to the prefecture, as well as for those who are passionate about photography like myself.

If you’d like to take a journey on the Mugenkyo Ferry, please take a look at the information below!

BASIC INFORMATION*

*Correct as of May 2018

  • Boats run throughout the day between late April and November.
  • It takes 30 minutes for a 1-way journey or an hour for both ways.
  • In summer, the boats run between 6:00 AM and sunset.
  • If you’d like to see the picturesque Tadami River mist, it’s best to ask for Hoshi’s recommendation regarding the best day (and time of day) to visit.
  • See more information (from Oku-Aizu Tourism) about the Mugenkyo (Mugenkyo no Watashi) here.
  • Hoshi san can’t guide you in English, so he won’t be able to guide you around the deserted town on the opposite side of the river.

 

HOW TO BOOK

PRICE

  • 5,000 yen per boat (up to 4 people).
  • If there are more than 4 people, then there will be an extra charge of 1200 yen per person.

CHOOSE A MEETING POINT

  • When you reserve, make sure to state whether you’d like to meet Hoshi san or his colleague at the main jetty near Tsuru no Yu (where I met him), or if you’d like him to come meet you at Hayato Station, on the Tadami Line. See here for the Tadami Line train schedule.
  • If coming by train, make sure to tell the staff what time of day your train will arrive at.

FINDING THE TSURU NO YU JETTY

  • If you are driving, park at Tsuru no Yu Onsen.
  • Walk down to the water’s edge.
  • There will be a shrine nearby and a small wooden building near the jetty.

OTHER INFORMATION FOR VISITORS

  • As of summer 2020, there are a number of portable toilet facilities close to Tsuru no Yu, for customers of the Mugenkyo ferry.
  • The ferry will run even in rain / windy(ask people to bring their own umbrellas) but may have to cancel appointments in the case of heavy rain.

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    2023 Cherry Blossom Full Bloom Forecast & Spots in Fukushima

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The blooming period typically lasts for about two weeks—flowers usually reach full bloom about a week after blossoming and keep blooming only for an additional week. Ozawa Sakura in Tamura City Fukushima prefecture boasts a long sakura season, however, with flowers sprouting along the prefecture from late March to early May. How Cherry Blossoms Bloom in Fukushima Cherry blossom tunnel at Sakura Hill in Dake Onsen Although the exact dates vary by year, cherry blossoms are known to bloom in an ‘m’ shape across Fukushima prefecture.  The coastal area, on the east side, sees the first blossoms between late March and early April, going from South to North. Next, flowers start sprouting in the central and western areas from North to South. The last blossoms can be seen sometime up until mid-May in South-West Aizu. Sakuratoge Pass in Kitashiobara Village For more information about how sakura blooms in Fukushima, please refer to this guide. Because it is best to see sakura in full bloom (or near full bloom), we recommend picking destinations according to the dates you have available.  2023 Forecast Dates Per Area Yonomori Sakura in Tomioka Town It is difficult to predict the exact date when cherry blossoms will bloom, as weather conditions in the prior weeks and months directly affect when the blooming starts and for how long it lasts. But there are ways to know a rough estimate. The following information is based on the website of the Japan Meteorological Corporation “Sakura Navi” (please note, however, that this is simply a forecast and actual blooming dates may vary).   As of February 2023, here are the projected dates for cherry blossoms in different areas of Fukushima in 2023 (Dates in red are as of March 2023): Coastal Area Iwaki City: Early April (Late March) Soma City: Early to Mid-April (Early April) Central Area Fukushima City: Early to Mid-April (Early April) Koriyama City: Mid-April (Early to Mid-April) Shirakawa City: Mid-April (Early to Mid-April) Aizu Area Aizu-Wakamatsu City: Mid to Late April (Mid-April) Yanaizu Town: Mid to Late April Full Bloom Forecasts Per Area The flowers are most beautiful when in full bloom, and for a few days to a week later. Cherry blossoms in Inawashiro Town Here are the Japan Meteorological Corporation's 'Sakura Navi' estimated dates for full bloom in Fukushima in 2023 (forecast as of mid-February; actual blooming dates may vary depending on future temperatures and the weather). Coastal Area’s Sakura Spots Full Bloom Forecast for 2023 (Dates in red are updated as of March 2023) Iwaki Flower Center (Iwaki City): April 5 (March 30) Miyukiyama Park (Iwaki City):  April 5 (March 29) Matsugaoka Park (Iwaki City): April 7  (April 1) Soma Odaka Shrine (Minamisoma City): April 8 (March 31) Tenjin Misaki Sports Park (Naraha Town): April 11 (April 5) Baryo Park (Soma City): April 11 (April 3) Cherry blossoms at Soma Odaka Shrine in Minamisoma City Central Area’s Sakura Spots Full Bloom Forecast for 2023 (Dates in red are updated as of March 2023) Hanamiyama Park (Fukushima City): April 9* (April 3)* Kasumigajo Castle Park (Nihonmatsu City): April 12 (April 6) Komine Castle (Shirakawa City): April 12 (April 6) Kaiseizan Park (Koriyama City): April 12 (April 6) Fujita River Fureai-Zakura (Koriyama City): April 14 (April 7) Natsui Senbon-Zakura (Ono Town): April 20 (April 16) Although it is difficult to predict the exact date as of yet, Miharu Takizakura is expected to be in full bloom in early to mid-April.  *Hanamiyama Park has different varieties of cherry blossom trees, each blooming at different times. 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Cherry blossoms at Yunokami Onsen Station in Shimogo Town (close to Ouchi-juku) The information contained in this post is a rough forecast based on the information provided on the Japan Meteorological Corporation’s website ‘Sakura Navi’ as of February 2023 (dates in red are updated as of March 2023). Actual blooming dates may vary depending on future temperatures and the weather. To access the latest information about the status of cherry blossoms in Fukushima in 2023, visit Japan Meteorological Corporation’s website Sakura Navi (the website is in Japanese but you can change the language to English from the drop-down menu).   Arakawa Sakura Tsuzumi River Park in Fukushima City

    2023 Cherry Blossom Full Bloom Forecast & Spots in Fukushima
  2. Destination Spotlight

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath in Katsurao Village

    Japan is blessed with plenty of green areas where clear rivers and pristine forests are everyday sights. Such is the case of Katsurao (葛尾村), a rural mountain village in the coastal area of Fukushima prefecture, located between Namie Town and Tamura City. Traversed by gushing rivers and gentle slopes, this village was the location of a footpath event held on a breezy day in early February, 2023. I joined the event, along with +70 participants, and I’d like to share how it went! But first… What’s a footpath event, you may ask? As part of something called the ‘Reconstruction Exploration Project’, Fukushima prefecture is developing footpaths (hiking trails) in towns and villages that were severely affected by the earthquake, tsunami and nuclear accident in 2011. These trails are designed alongside residents, who include some of their favorite local spots that they’d like visitors to see. By following footpaths, visitors and locals can come together to experience firsthand the reconstruction and revitalization of Fukushima, as well as discover the beautiful sights that each area has to offer! Katsurao Village’s Evacuation & Revitalization Due to the nuclear accident, Katsurao village had to be entirely evacuated in 2011. Five years later, following decontamination work, the evacuation order was lifted for most of its districts, and in 2022, the entire village saw the end of the restrictions. As of today, over four hundred residents live in Katsurao. There is a restaurant, a convenience store, a traditional Japanese-style inn and other services, although businesses in the village remain few and far between, with dense woodlands and wide roads dominating the landscape. Katsurao’s Footpath We began our walk under the early afternoon sun, our boots crunching on the snow-covered roads. At one point, the slope became steep and slippery, but we persisted all the way up to a beautiful shrine, which was well worth the climb.  Myoken Shrine This is Myoken shrine (妙見神社). Its light wooden structure contrasts beautifully against the dark woodlands in the background. Some participants stopped to pray at the shrine, while others rested or had some water. There was also a picnic table nearby where participants could sit and catch a break while breathing in the cool mountain air. Among the participants were some local celebrities and influencers, as well as editors from travel magazines. Katsurao Village Reconstruction Exchange Center Azalea  We descended the slope and after a bit of walking came across a big, modern building that, in spite of looking strikingly new, seemed to fit its surroundings perfectly. This, I learned, is Katsurao Village’s Reconstruction Exchange Center Azalea. And it looks as beautiful and cozy inside as it does from outside! 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Shimi-mochi! a.k.a., the area’s delicacy.  Shimi-mochi, as the name indicates, is a kind of ‘mochi’ (Japanese rice cake), but it is unique both in flavor and in the way it is prepared.  First, the mochi is hung outdoors during the winter months, so that it freezes and dries up (‘shimi-mochi’ means ‘frozen mochi’ in Japanese). The mochi is then soaked in water so that they regain moisture. The water is then drained, and the mochi rice cakes are cooked in a pan. Shimi-mochi is usually served warm and topped with a sauce. This time, we got to try shimi-mochi with a sweet soy sauce which was absolutely delicious! The texture and flavor of the mochi was unlike any other I’ve tasted before. I’d recommend trying it yourself during your next visit to Katsurao village! Participants were given this towel. This deep green shade is dubbed ‘Katsurao green’, and it has an illustration of Akabeko (Fukushima prefecture’s folk red cow) drawn by ‘Meli et Malice’, a French illustrator based in Fukushima. I was thrilled that I got to keep it as a souvenir!  If you’re interested in following this footpath, check out the following link where you can find more information. If you’re interested in knowing more about Fukushima’s footpath, check out this post about hiking in the Miyakoji area of Tamura City.

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath in Katsurao Village
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    Fukushima’s Soma Nomaoi Festival!

    Soma Nomaoi Festival is a horse centric samurai festival that dates back to over 1000 years ago! The festival honors and celebrates the tradition of raising horses for military strength and as a part of life for people in the area. Although the festival has changed over the years (for instance allowing women to participate and adding new events!), the original feeling of the festival is still strong and alive. The history and heart of the region shines through at this incredible Japanese festival that you won’t want to miss!   Day one (Saturday): The Local Favorite Day I reached out to my friend, Satou Shouko, who is from Kashima-ku, an area that is a part of the region that was ruled by the Soma clan. She offered to take me and my coworker Rin around to see the events on Saturday. Ecstatic, we gathered our cameras (and a small gift for Satou-san of course) and headed off. Satou-san was incredibly kind and explained the events that we would be seeing that day. I was surprised to hear from her that Saturday is the favorite day for most locals, so much so that many will enjoy the festival on Saturday but skip out on Sundays celebrations!   The Festival Begins! We watched as a screen showed live footage from around Soma clan. The events of the day are separate but occur simultaneously across the areas. So, depending on which town’s festivities you choose to see, you can witness a variety of events. 2022 was the first year that they were able to conduct a livestream of the event on this scale, and it was absolutely incredible. Once you finish reading, go check it out.  Thanks to the livestream we got a close look at the home of the Supreme Commander where pre-departure ceremonies were taking place. The live feed showed us as prayers and toasts at three shrines: Soma Nakamura Shrine, Soma Ota Shrine, and Soma Odaka Shrine. One toast I saw on screen was followed by a smashing of the glass sake cup, an action that is intended to bring good luck supposedly. The breaking of glass, shouting in tough sounding samurai words, and the sounding of conch shell horns is an intimidating series of sounds to take in. How terrifying it must have been to face a samurai warrior on the battle field!   Soutaishou-omukae (Reception of the Supreme Commander) Warriors on horseback marching through the town and racing down narrow paths through the rice field travel back and forth, announcing updates to the leaders who are already seated, waiting to receive the Supreme Commander. This year, the Supreme Commander role was filled by the first born grandson of the reigning Supreme Commader! At 14 he has now reached the historical age of manhood, his debut at the festival was only days after his coming of age ceremony. Next year his grandfather will return to the position where he will stay until his son will permanently take over. While waiting, there are dance performances, conch shell blowing, and warriors on horseback rushing in to provide information. There was a short break in the action, and suddenly visitors were permitted to enter the square and mingle with the Samurai leaders, warriors, conch shell horn bearers and more. Taking photos with them as they sat in character was so much fun. I turned to thank one of the leaders for the photo when he suddenly offered me some sake and a snack from his tray of traditional snacks (umeboshi and cucumbers!) which was a big surprise. It was so much fun to connect with such a high ranking warrior and glimpse behind the character and see he is actually a really nice old man! When the break time ended, the tough shouting and samurai acting began again! Suddenly the conch shell horn bearers stood to attention and sounded their horns to announce the arrival of the Supreme Commander. Flanked by more tough looking men on horses, the procession was impressive! More dancing, toasts, and speeches ensued! My favorite part? When they begin to sing the ancient anthem of the Soma clan, the same song that their ancestors sang, the crowd joined in. It was absolutely magical to be in the midst of a community that retains such strong links to their history and culture. As the group began to prepare for their march through the streets, people rushed off to find the ideal place to view the parade from. As the procession of samurais on horseback marched down the street.   Gyouretsu (Samurai Procession) We rushed down the street to a little intersection in the road and waited with others to catch a glimpse of the parade. The parade here is a small version of the parade that happens on Sunday when all the districts of the Soma Clan join together in a massive procession of roughly 350 horses! (Not including the many more people who join the procession on foot.) The ornate decorations on the horses and the beauty of each set of armor is amazing to view from up close. Various flags represent the family crests or different subgroups of the Soma clan and are carried proudly through the streets. Every once in a while you will notice the procession come to a halt, and the sounding of the conch shell horns as well as the occasional sound of a drum. The intricate historic style of the procession provides a stark contrast to the telephone lines and traffic lights that look so modern it feels almost alien. This parade really gives you a feeling of Japan’s wonderful way of preserving history so that ancient cultural traditions can exist among the modern culture, a perfect blend of the old and new.   Shinki-soudatsusen (Flag Competition) After the parade, the horses are transported to a large open field on a hill overlooking the sea. In the field samurai warriors sit with their families (who look strange in comparison in the modern clothes) to enjoy a snack and drink. Watching moms pull out homemade rice balls (onigiri) and Fukushima peaches to feed to their little warriors was extremely cute. The horses were relaxing nearby their families, munching on some tall grasses. Once all of the horses and participants have arrived, the game can begin! The sounding of the conch shell horns is followed by a loud BANG as fireworks are launched into the sky and colorful flags fall slowly dancing through the sky. The explosions sound like what I imagine a battle field may have sounded like. Some horses naturally got spooked, while other were braver, heeding the commands of the riders and rushing into the thick of battle to capture the quickly falling flag. In some cases, the spooked horses launched their riders into the air sending them tumbling across the grass. Those who were ejected from their seat seemed to be okay, however I quickly became aware of the ambulance and health professionals who were standing by onsite - just in case! What a relief. The joy on their faces as their successfully captured a flag was really beautiful, as the families of the riders cheered from the sidelines. The close & intimate setting of Saturday’s event was wonderful and there were a lot of opportunities to chat with people, take photos, and witness these incredible events up close. Sometimes too close! At one point I had to dash away from the sidelines as one nervous horse stomped a little too close. In a moment of panic, I dropped my GoPro camera a little too close, fortunately it wasn’t stomped into oblivion! So please be cautious when experiencing the event up close on Saturday and be prepared to dash away with your equipment in case a nervous horse wanders into your personal space.   Day two (Sunday): The Main Event Despite the heat and exhaustion of Saturday, I went to Sunday’s event as well! Unfortunately, Satou-san and Rin couldn’t join me, but I set out with some other friends to check it out. This is the day when all of the Soma clan gathers to compete against each other in large scale versions of events that took place on Saturday! This event is more tourist friendly with food stalls, souvenirs stands. Plus, it is pretty easy to know where to go as all you need to do is follow the crowd! A huge parade marches through the streets, this year there were around 350 horses participating- and even more human participants of course! The parade ends at a large arena and amphitheater with many seats of the horses gather at the end of the parade. Dance performances, a horse race, and a massive capture the flag event takes place here and it is absolutely incredible. Flanking either side of the seating area are shaded horse stables where horses are brought to relax and wind down if they get too hot and stressed, or if they just need a rest. I was able to chat with the owners of the horses and find out a bit more about these sweet babies. One three-year-old horse I met was going to be in the racing event later, so it was a lot of fun to meet him and then later recognize him by his flag. Like cheering for a friend, I was so happy to see him win third place in his race. What a champion! Due to the large number of horses the falls were a bit more intense on this day creating an exciting atmosphere similar to a rodeo. Everyone on the edge of their seats to see what would happen! Shocked and amazement echoes across the audience, especially in one instance where a rider was tossed off his horse but he managed to hold onto the reigns and calm the horse down all on his own! Now that is some next level horse whispering. The area is so much bigger, some spooked horses would race by at jaw dropping speeds to the edges of the area or to the area where they knew they could get water and snacks while their rider frantically held on. Fortunately, there didn’t seem to be any injuries that were too bad, but there were definitely some limping samurai warriors by the end of the day!   Day three: Nomakake (The Ancient Horse capturing ritual) I wasn’t able to make it to the third and final day of the festival but I imagine that it is smaller and more intimate like the first day. On this day the event takes place where people capture a wild horse without using any tools and then take the horse to the shrine as an offering. This event is the most ancient and traditional event of the festival, existing since ancient times. I hope that you will go experience this incredible festival for yourself! This was Reagan from the Fukushima Prefecture Tourism and Local Products Association, thank you for reading and joining along on this story. Please contact us if you want to visit or have any questions about the festival or visiting Fukushima. Want to experience a horseback ride through the region that was ruled by the mighty Soma Clan? Click here for tour information.

    Fukushima’s Soma Nomaoi Festival!
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