Destination Spotlight

Enjoying Mt. Adatara in Autumn

Enjoying Mt. Adatara in Autumn

Mt. Adatara is one of Fukushima Prefecture’s most spectacular places to go and see the bright colours of the autumn leaves, in a custom that is called 'momiji-gari' in Japanese. I went to Mt. Adatara in Nihonmatsu to try and do some momiji-gari of my own! I was a little worried about hiking Mt. Adatara before I went because I have a bad sense of direction, so I wanted to write this blog to give some tips to those interested in visiting!

WHERE TO START?

The most simple hiking route – and definitely the most popular one in the autumn season – starts with the Mt. Adatara Rope-way. This rope-way is located at the Adatara Kogen Ski Resort, in Oku Dake (see map below).

TRAVEL TIP

During the autumn, there are a number of daily shuttle buses between Dake Onsen town and the rope-way. There is also often a shuttle bus service leaving from Nihonmatsu Station, which takes 50 mins.

TAKING THE ROPE-WAY TO YAKUSHI PEAK

The 10-minute journey on the Mt. Adatara Rope-way is incredibly scenic, regardless of the time of year.

  • Price: 1,050 yen one-way. 1,750 yen return.*
  • Opening hours: The rope-way tends to be open from late April to early November. Please make sure to make a note of the last return rope-way trip when you visit, to make sure you don't get stranded at the viewpoint!

*Correct as of June 2020

When you get off the rope-way, it is a short walk to Yakushi Dake Peak, which is a very popular photo spot. Many people come here just to take photos, then go back down the rope-way and go have their lunch or dip in an onsen! I’ve done this before actually, but this time we wanted to do the full basic hike.

We happened to plan our trip to Mt Adatara on a very, very cloudy day – which was unfortunate! But you can tell just how bright the colours of the leaves on the mountain were from the photo below.

MISTY HIKE TO THE TOP OF MT. ADATARA

It turns out I didn’t need to worry about getting lost – the route to the top was well signposted – albeit just in Japanese.

TRAVEL TIP

Make sure you know the kanji words for the places you want to go before you set off on your hike! 安達太良山頂 – Peak of Mt. Adatara (adatara sancho), 奥岳 – Oku Dake (where the hike begins)

I was pretty disappointed that, despite being able to see the leaves from the bottom of the rope-way, after departing from the Yakushi Dake view spot, the mist got more and more intense. Check out the amazing views I got from the peak of the mountain!

AUTUMN COLOURS SHINING THROUGH

Luckily, the weather began to take a turn for the better on the way to our next destination – Kurogane-goya Mountain Lodge.

Going from being able to see nothing but white, to being surrounded by colour was a very odd experience! It was a little frustrating, as I realized I could have been seeing amazing sights for the last hour. However, I was so happy to get to enjoy the fantastic views that I soon forgot about my woes.

Soon we were able to see our lunch stop, the mountain lodge, off in the distance. It’s the lone building in the photo below.

LUNCH AT KUROGANE-GOYA

Kurogane-goya Mountain Lodge acts as a rest stop for hikers passing through, as well as being a place to stay the night for those going on longer hikes.

The inside decor of the Kurogane-goya Mountain Lodge is nearly completely made of wood. The vintage style lamps and wood stove burner give it a very homey and welcoming feel. I would love to stay here in winter, all warm and comfortable by the fire, despite the heavy snow outside.

One thing that is quite well-known about Kurogane-goya is the delicious curry they serve to customers who stay overnight! Even though we didn’t stay overnight on this occasion, we got to sample the curry since we were visiting for a photo shoot. It did not disappoint!

There is also a public hot spring facility built into the lodge, complete with amazing, cloudy water straight from a nearby source. I cannot describe how great it feels to get in a hot onsen after hiking for an hour or so. I only had time for a 10-minute dip, but even that was enough to make my body feel physically refreshed. You can use the onsen even if you aren’t spending the night at the lodge. Just remember to bring a towel and prepare to share your bath with other weary hikers!

We were blessed with better weather for our hike on the way back from Kurogane-goya Mountain Lodge.

The path back to Oku Dake from Kurogane-goya is lined by tall trees for most of the hike, unlike the route to the top of Mt. Adatara which (is supposed to have) panoramic views!

On the way down, I spotted a pipe from where you can drink fresh water from the mountain. They even provide you with what looks like a tiny saucepan!

As we got closer to the end of our hike, one of my colleagues showed me a few photos he had taken the week before when he went hiking here… I was gutted that the weather hadn’t been better on the day of my visit!

OKUDAKE ONSEN

Back at Okudake, from where the hike started, we decided to check out the onsen before heading back to the office. This onsen is called Okudake no Yu. The water is not as cloudy as at Kurogane-goya, and the temperature is a bit cooler, but the water still felt amazing. The outside baths also look like infinity pools!

I definitely recommend visitors to stop by at one of these onsen and have a rest before returning home after their hikes – it is an amazing feeling!

HIKING ROUTE

Here is a little illustration of the route that we hiked. I hope that it is helpful.

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  1. Useful Information

    2023 Cherry Blossom Full Bloom Forecast & Spots in Fukushima

    Update (2023/03/14): This article was originally published in February 2023. Cherry blossoms are blooming earlier than expected this year, so most of the dates that were originally included in this article are inaccurate as per current predictions. Please find the updated dates (as of March 14, 2023) in red. Fukushima prefecture is the ultimate cherry blossom destination—home to Miharu Takizakura, said to be one of the oldest waterfall sakura trees in Japan, and the idyllic Hanamiyama Park in Fukushima City, a park on a hill with countless varieties of flower trees and shrubs, to name only two of its most famous spots. Miharu Takizakura in Miharu Town. Photo: （株）三春まちづくり公社 When to See Cherry Blossoms in Fukushima Hanamiyama Park in Fukushima City You may have heard (or experienced) that the cherry blossom season is painstakingly short. The blooming period typically lasts for about two weeks—flowers usually reach full bloom about a week after blossoming and keep blooming only for an additional week. Ozawa Sakura in Tamura City Fukushima prefecture boasts a long sakura season, however, with flowers sprouting along the prefecture from late March to early May. How Cherry Blossoms Bloom in Fukushima Cherry blossom tunnel at Sakura Hill in Dake Onsen Although the exact dates vary by year, cherry blossoms are known to bloom in an ‘m’ shape across Fukushima prefecture.  The coastal area, on the east side, sees the first blossoms between late March and early April, going from South to North. Next, flowers start sprouting in the central and western areas from North to South. The last blossoms can be seen sometime up until mid-May in South-West Aizu. Sakuratoge Pass in Kitashiobara Village For more information about how sakura blooms in Fukushima, please refer to this guide. Because it is best to see sakura in full bloom (or near full bloom), we recommend picking destinations according to the dates you have available.  2023 Forecast Dates Per Area Yonomori Sakura in Tomioka Town It is difficult to predict the exact date when cherry blossoms will bloom, as weather conditions in the prior weeks and months directly affect when the blooming starts and for how long it lasts. But there are ways to know a rough estimate. The following information is based on the website of the Japan Meteorological Corporation “Sakura Navi” (please note, however, that this is simply a forecast and actual blooming dates may vary).   As of February 2023, here are the projected dates for cherry blossoms in different areas of Fukushima in 2023 (Dates in red are as of March 2023): Coastal Area Iwaki City: Early April (Late March) Soma City: Early to Mid-April (Early April) Central Area Fukushima City: Early to Mid-April (Early April) Koriyama City: Mid-April (Early to Mid-April) Shirakawa City: Mid-April (Early to Mid-April) Aizu Area Aizu-Wakamatsu City: Mid to Late April (Mid-April) Yanaizu Town: Mid to Late April Full Bloom Forecasts Per Area The flowers are most beautiful when in full bloom, and for a few days to a week later. Cherry blossoms in Inawashiro Town Here are the Japan Meteorological Corporation's 'Sakura Navi' estimated dates for full bloom in Fukushima in 2023 (forecast as of mid-February; actual blooming dates may vary depending on future temperatures and the weather). Coastal Area’s Sakura Spots Full Bloom Forecast for 2023 (Dates in red are updated as of March 2023) Iwaki Flower Center (Iwaki City): April 5 (March 30) Miyukiyama Park (Iwaki City):  April 5 (March 29) Matsugaoka Park (Iwaki City): April 7  (April 1) Soma Odaka Shrine (Minamisoma City): April 8 (March 31) Tenjin Misaki Sports Park (Naraha Town): April 11 (April 5) Baryo Park (Soma City): April 11 (April 3) Cherry blossoms at Soma Odaka Shrine in Minamisoma City Central Area’s Sakura Spots Full Bloom Forecast for 2023 (Dates in red are updated as of March 2023) Hanamiyama Park (Fukushima City): April 9* (April 3)* Kasumigajo Castle Park (Nihonmatsu City): April 12 (April 6) Komine Castle (Shirakawa City): April 12 (April 6) Kaiseizan Park (Koriyama City): April 12 (April 6) Fujita River Fureai-Zakura (Koriyama City): April 14 (April 7) Natsui Senbon-Zakura (Ono Town): April 20 (April 16) Although it is difficult to predict the exact date as of yet, Miharu Takizakura is expected to be in full bloom in early to mid-April.  *Hanamiyama Park has different varieties of cherry blossom trees, each blooming at different times. More information here. Heidodan Cherry Tree in Miharu Town Aizu Area’s Sakura Spots Full Bloom Forecast for 2023 (Dates in red are updated as of March 2023) Tsurugajo Castle (Aizu-Wakamatsu City): April 16 (April 11) Miyagawa Senbon-Zakura (Aizu-Misato Town): April 17 (April 13) Yunokami Onsen Station (Shimogo Town): April 19 (April 15) Enzoji Temple (Yanaizu Town): April 20 (April 17) Kannonji-gawa River (Inawashiro Town): April 27 (April 24) Tenkyodai Showa-No-Mori Park (Inawashiro Town): May 7 (May 5) Although it is difficult to predict the exact date as of yet, the Nicchu Line Weeping Cherry Blossom is expected to be in full bloom around mid-April. Nicchu Line Weeping Cherry Blossoms in Kitakata City For information about hanami spots, itineraries, and more visit our section Spring in Fukushima. Cherry blossoms at Yunokami Onsen Station in Shimogo Town (close to Ouchi-juku) The information contained in this post is a rough forecast based on the information provided on the Japan Meteorological Corporation’s website ‘Sakura Navi’ as of February 2023 (dates in red are updated as of March 2023). Actual blooming dates may vary depending on future temperatures and the weather. To access the latest information about the status of cherry blossoms in Fukushima in 2023, visit Japan Meteorological Corporation’s website Sakura Navi (the website is in Japanese but you can change the language to English from the drop-down menu).   Arakawa Sakura Tsuzumi River Park in Fukushima City

    2023 Cherry Blossom Full Bloom Forecast & Spots in Fukushima
  2. Destination Spotlight

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath in Katsurao Village

    Japan is blessed with plenty of green areas where clear rivers and pristine forests are everyday sights. Such is the case of Katsurao (葛尾村), a rural mountain village in the coastal area of Fukushima prefecture, located between Namie Town and Tamura City. Traversed by gushing rivers and gentle slopes, this village was the location of a footpath event held on a breezy day in early February, 2023. I joined the event, along with +70 participants, and I’d like to share how it went! But first… What’s a footpath event, you may ask? As part of something called the ‘Reconstruction Exploration Project’, Fukushima prefecture is developing footpaths (hiking trails) in towns and villages that were severely affected by the earthquake, tsunami and nuclear accident in 2011. These trails are designed alongside residents, who include some of their favorite local spots that they’d like visitors to see. By following footpaths, visitors and locals can come together to experience firsthand the reconstruction and revitalization of Fukushima, as well as discover the beautiful sights that each area has to offer! Katsurao Village’s Evacuation & Revitalization Due to the nuclear accident, Katsurao village had to be entirely evacuated in 2011. Five years later, following decontamination work, the evacuation order was lifted for most of its districts, and in 2022, the entire village saw the end of the restrictions. As of today, over four hundred residents live in Katsurao. There is a restaurant, a convenience store, a traditional Japanese-style inn and other services, although businesses in the village remain few and far between, with dense woodlands and wide roads dominating the landscape. Katsurao’s Footpath We began our walk under the early afternoon sun, our boots crunching on the snow-covered roads. At one point, the slope became steep and slippery, but we persisted all the way up to a beautiful shrine, which was well worth the climb.  Myoken Shrine This is Myoken shrine (妙見神社). Its light wooden structure contrasts beautifully against the dark woodlands in the background. Some participants stopped to pray at the shrine, while others rested or had some water. There was also a picnic table nearby where participants could sit and catch a break while breathing in the cool mountain air. Among the participants were some local celebrities and influencers, as well as editors from travel magazines. Katsurao Village Reconstruction Exchange Center Azalea  We descended the slope and after a bit of walking came across a big, modern building that, in spite of looking strikingly new, seemed to fit its surroundings perfectly. This, I learned, is Katsurao Village’s Reconstruction Exchange Center Azalea. And it looks as beautiful and cozy inside as it does from outside! Here, you will find a souvenir shop that sells local crafts and snacks, and a cafe, as well as a vending machine for… sheep meat! (Katsurao’s specialty). That day, they were having a big Valentine’s Day sale for knitwear made in Katsurao. Lunch Time! We finally returned to the starting point, the lobby of “Midori-no-Sato Seseragi-So” (みどりの里せせらぎ荘) a Japanese-style inn and onsen resort.  We were welcomed back with a warm homemade curry prepared by local chefs using herbs from the area. Needless to say, it was delicious, and the perfect way to end the hike. Itadakimasu! Shimi-Chan: The Star of the Village I must admit that at first I thought Katsurao village’s mascot, ‘Shimi-chan’, was modeled after a peach, but it turned out I was very mistaken! (To my defense, I live in Fukushima City, and peaches are kind of a big deal here). ‘Shimi-chan’, which you’ll see all over Katsurao, both in crossings, as well as in souvenirs, is modeled after... Shimi-mochi! a.k.a., the area’s delicacy.  Shimi-mochi, as the name indicates, is a kind of ‘mochi’ (Japanese rice cake), but it is unique both in flavor and in the way it is prepared.  First, the mochi is hung outdoors during the winter months, so that it freezes and dries up (‘shimi-mochi’ means ‘frozen mochi’ in Japanese). The mochi is then soaked in water so that they regain moisture. The water is then drained, and the mochi rice cakes are cooked in a pan. Shimi-mochi is usually served warm and topped with a sauce. This time, we got to try shimi-mochi with a sweet soy sauce which was absolutely delicious! The texture and flavor of the mochi was unlike any other I’ve tasted before. I’d recommend trying it yourself during your next visit to Katsurao village! Participants were given this towel. This deep green shade is dubbed ‘Katsurao green’, and it has an illustration of Akabeko (Fukushima prefecture’s folk red cow) drawn by ‘Meli et Malice’, a French illustrator based in Fukushima. I was thrilled that I got to keep it as a souvenir!  If you’re interested in following this footpath, check out the following link where you can find more information. If you’re interested in knowing more about Fukushima’s footpath, check out this post about hiking in the Miyakoji area of Tamura City.

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath in Katsurao Village
  3. Useful Information

    Fukushima’s Soma Nomaoi Festival!

    Soma Nomaoi Festival is a horse centric samurai festival that dates back to over 1000 years ago! The festival honors and celebrates the tradition of raising horses for military strength and as a part of life for people in the area. Although the festival has changed over the years (for instance allowing women to participate and adding new events!), the original feeling of the festival is still strong and alive. The history and heart of the region shines through at this incredible Japanese festival that you won’t want to miss!   Day one (Saturday): The Local Favorite Day I reached out to my friend, Satou Shouko, who is from Kashima-ku, an area that is a part of the region that was ruled by the Soma clan. She offered to take me and my coworker Rin around to see the events on Saturday. Ecstatic, we gathered our cameras (and a small gift for Satou-san of course) and headed off. Satou-san was incredibly kind and explained the events that we would be seeing that day. I was surprised to hear from her that Saturday is the favorite day for most locals, so much so that many will enjoy the festival on Saturday but skip out on Sundays celebrations!   The Festival Begins! We watched as a screen showed live footage from around Soma clan. The events of the day are separate but occur simultaneously across the areas. So, depending on which town’s festivities you choose to see, you can witness a variety of events. 2022 was the first year that they were able to conduct a livestream of the event on this scale, and it was absolutely incredible. Once you finish reading, go check it out.  Thanks to the livestream we got a close look at the home of the Supreme Commander where pre-departure ceremonies were taking place. The live feed showed us as prayers and toasts at three shrines: Soma Nakamura Shrine, Soma Ota Shrine, and Soma Odaka Shrine. One toast I saw on screen was followed by a smashing of the glass sake cup, an action that is intended to bring good luck supposedly. The breaking of glass, shouting in tough sounding samurai words, and the sounding of conch shell horns is an intimidating series of sounds to take in. How terrifying it must have been to face a samurai warrior on the battle field!   Soutaishou-omukae (Reception of the Supreme Commander) Warriors on horseback marching through the town and racing down narrow paths through the rice field travel back and forth, announcing updates to the leaders who are already seated, waiting to receive the Supreme Commander. This year, the Supreme Commander role was filled by the first born grandson of the reigning Supreme Commader! At 14 he has now reached the historical age of manhood, his debut at the festival was only days after his coming of age ceremony. Next year his grandfather will return to the position where he will stay until his son will permanently take over. While waiting, there are dance performances, conch shell blowing, and warriors on horseback rushing in to provide information. There was a short break in the action, and suddenly visitors were permitted to enter the square and mingle with the Samurai leaders, warriors, conch shell horn bearers and more. Taking photos with them as they sat in character was so much fun. I turned to thank one of the leaders for the photo when he suddenly offered me some sake and a snack from his tray of traditional snacks (umeboshi and cucumbers!) which was a big surprise. It was so much fun to connect with such a high ranking warrior and glimpse behind the character and see he is actually a really nice old man! When the break time ended, the tough shouting and samurai acting began again! Suddenly the conch shell horn bearers stood to attention and sounded their horns to announce the arrival of the Supreme Commander. Flanked by more tough looking men on horses, the procession was impressive! More dancing, toasts, and speeches ensued! My favorite part? When they begin to sing the ancient anthem of the Soma clan, the same song that their ancestors sang, the crowd joined in. It was absolutely magical to be in the midst of a community that retains such strong links to their history and culture. As the group began to prepare for their march through the streets, people rushed off to find the ideal place to view the parade from. As the procession of samurais on horseback marched down the street.   Gyouretsu (Samurai Procession) We rushed down the street to a little intersection in the road and waited with others to catch a glimpse of the parade. The parade here is a small version of the parade that happens on Sunday when all the districts of the Soma Clan join together in a massive procession of roughly 350 horses! (Not including the many more people who join the procession on foot.) The ornate decorations on the horses and the beauty of each set of armor is amazing to view from up close. Various flags represent the family crests or different subgroups of the Soma clan and are carried proudly through the streets. Every once in a while you will notice the procession come to a halt, and the sounding of the conch shell horns as well as the occasional sound of a drum. The intricate historic style of the procession provides a stark contrast to the telephone lines and traffic lights that look so modern it feels almost alien. This parade really gives you a feeling of Japan’s wonderful way of preserving history so that ancient cultural traditions can exist among the modern culture, a perfect blend of the old and new.   Shinki-soudatsusen (Flag Competition) After the parade, the horses are transported to a large open field on a hill overlooking the sea. In the field samurai warriors sit with their families (who look strange in comparison in the modern clothes) to enjoy a snack and drink. Watching moms pull out homemade rice balls (onigiri) and Fukushima peaches to feed to their little warriors was extremely cute. The horses were relaxing nearby their families, munching on some tall grasses. Once all of the horses and participants have arrived, the game can begin! The sounding of the conch shell horns is followed by a loud BANG as fireworks are launched into the sky and colorful flags fall slowly dancing through the sky. The explosions sound like what I imagine a battle field may have sounded like. Some horses naturally got spooked, while other were braver, heeding the commands of the riders and rushing into the thick of battle to capture the quickly falling flag. In some cases, the spooked horses launched their riders into the air sending them tumbling across the grass. Those who were ejected from their seat seemed to be okay, however I quickly became aware of the ambulance and health professionals who were standing by onsite - just in case! What a relief. The joy on their faces as their successfully captured a flag was really beautiful, as the families of the riders cheered from the sidelines. The close & intimate setting of Saturday’s event was wonderful and there were a lot of opportunities to chat with people, take photos, and witness these incredible events up close. Sometimes too close! At one point I had to dash away from the sidelines as one nervous horse stomped a little too close. In a moment of panic, I dropped my GoPro camera a little too close, fortunately it wasn’t stomped into oblivion! So please be cautious when experiencing the event up close on Saturday and be prepared to dash away with your equipment in case a nervous horse wanders into your personal space.   Day two (Sunday): The Main Event Despite the heat and exhaustion of Saturday, I went to Sunday’s event as well! Unfortunately, Satou-san and Rin couldn’t join me, but I set out with some other friends to check it out. This is the day when all of the Soma clan gathers to compete against each other in large scale versions of events that took place on Saturday! This event is more tourist friendly with food stalls, souvenirs stands. Plus, it is pretty easy to know where to go as all you need to do is follow the crowd! A huge parade marches through the streets, this year there were around 350 horses participating- and even more human participants of course! The parade ends at a large arena and amphitheater with many seats of the horses gather at the end of the parade. Dance performances, a horse race, and a massive capture the flag event takes place here and it is absolutely incredible. Flanking either side of the seating area are shaded horse stables where horses are brought to relax and wind down if they get too hot and stressed, or if they just need a rest. I was able to chat with the owners of the horses and find out a bit more about these sweet babies. One three-year-old horse I met was going to be in the racing event later, so it was a lot of fun to meet him and then later recognize him by his flag. Like cheering for a friend, I was so happy to see him win third place in his race. What a champion! Due to the large number of horses the falls were a bit more intense on this day creating an exciting atmosphere similar to a rodeo. Everyone on the edge of their seats to see what would happen! Shocked and amazement echoes across the audience, especially in one instance where a rider was tossed off his horse but he managed to hold onto the reigns and calm the horse down all on his own! Now that is some next level horse whispering. The area is so much bigger, some spooked horses would race by at jaw dropping speeds to the edges of the area or to the area where they knew they could get water and snacks while their rider frantically held on. Fortunately, there didn’t seem to be any injuries that were too bad, but there were definitely some limping samurai warriors by the end of the day!   Day three: Nomakake (The Ancient Horse capturing ritual) I wasn’t able to make it to the third and final day of the festival but I imagine that it is smaller and more intimate like the first day. On this day the event takes place where people capture a wild horse without using any tools and then take the horse to the shrine as an offering. This event is the most ancient and traditional event of the festival, existing since ancient times. I hope that you will go experience this incredible festival for yourself! This was Reagan from the Fukushima Prefecture Tourism and Local Products Association, thank you for reading and joining along on this story. Please contact us if you want to visit or have any questions about the festival or visiting Fukushima. Want to experience a horseback ride through the region that was ruled by the mighty Soma Clan? Click here for tour information.

    Fukushima’s Soma Nomaoi Festival!
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