Destination Spotlight

Shoko Kanazawa Calligraphy Art Museum In Iwaki

Shoko Kanazawa Calligraphy Art Museum In Iwaki

The Shoko Kanazawa Art Museum in Iwaki City is home to many fantastic pieces of calligraphy created by Shoko Kanazawa, an artist who was born with Down syndrome.

The art museum shares its location with a kimono museum called Kimononoyakata Marusan (which contains the world’s largest kimono!) and a beautiful garden inspired by the traditional Japanese gardens of Kyoto.

I was really moved by Shoko’s beautiful and emotive calligraphy when I visited the Shoko Kanazawa Art Museum.

I’ve practised shuji (calligraphy) before, so I can only imagine the amount of time it takes to produce the artistic form of calligraphy referred to as shodo in Japanese. Many shodo artists imagine the form they want their brushstrokes to take before starting a piece. The sheer size of her pieces also gives Shoko an extra challenge.

ABOUT SHOKO KANAZAWA & HER ART

Shoko started practising shodo (Japanese expressive calligraphy) at the age of 5 years old, inspired by her mother, who is also a shodo artist.

Shoko’s work was first exhibited publicly in 2005, and the Shoko Kanazawa Art Museum was opened in 2012, following the Great East Japan Earthquake.

Many of the key works at the Art Museum, including the piece featured below which stands in the main hall, are related to the Great East Japan Earthquake, and express Shoko’s hopes for the reconstruction of the areas on the coast affected by the events that followed the triple disaster.

The piece above contains the kanji words 共に生きる(tomo ni ikiru), which can be translated as “to live together”. The meaning of this work is left up to the viewer, but it’s likely that it refers to humans living together with natural disaster, or the need for communities to pull together after a disaster to move forward.

Another piece related to post-3.11 reconstruction is 希望光 (kibou hikari), which translates as “the shining light of hope”. The message is concise, and the viewer can really feel Shoko’s emotion through the size and style of her characters.

One more connection between Shoko and the events of 3.11 is the use of her calligraphy as the logo for the Onahama Marine Bridge – this bridge was opened during certain hours for the public from last August, and is a symbol of reconstruction for the people of Iwaki City.

I found her calligraphy to be very moving, especially the piece which is shown in the photograph below. The calligraphy says 福は内 鬼も内 (fuku wa uchi, oni mo uchi). This phrase relates to the Japanese tradition of Setsubun, which takes place in early February every year.

During Setsubun, family members throw beans out the doors of their house – or throw them at a member of the family wearing a devil / demon mask – as a symbol of purifying their homes. During Setsubun, the phrase ‘fuku wa uchi, oni wa soto‘ (Luck stays inside, demons stay outside).

In Shoko’s piece, she changes this well known phrase to mean “Luck stays inside, demons also stay inside”. When asked about the creation of this piece, Shoko said that she felt sad for the demons, and felt like they would be lonely if kept outside alone! I think this message is really moving, and also that this pieces demonstrates Shoko’s personality very clearly.

As well as viewing Shoko’s art, visitors can also experience holding tools that Shoko uses to create her compositions. A number of the brushes she uses are on display, a long with an example of the size and type of paper she uses.

When I tried out her tools, I realised just how much you have to use your whole body to smoothly bring the brush over the page – creating work this big must be a really good workout! I can imagine myself making so many mistakes…

Shoko regularly does calligraphy demonstrations at public events throughout the year, and is always accompanied by her mother.

Shoko, now in her thirties, lives by herself, and is an amazing role-model, as her status as a public figure allows her to communicate and share with her home country, and the world, about her experience as a person with a disability.

READ MORE ABOUT SHOKO KANAZAWA

VISITING THE SHOKO KANAZAWA ART MUSEUM

  • Opening Hours: 10:00 to 16:00 (last entry at 15:30)
    Closed on Tues / Weds unless on a National Holiday (in which case, the following day the museum will be closed). Closed at the end of the year / new year
  • Price: 800 yen per adult. 400 yen for those with a disability. (Free for elementary school kids)

REACHING THE MUSEUM

See here for travel information about getting to Iwaki Yumoto Station.

  • By Public Transport: Take the train to Yumoto Station. From there the museum is a 20 minute taxi ride.
    There is also the option of renting a car near Iwaki Station and driving there using a Rental Car company such as Times Rentacar, Nippon Rentacar, JR Rent-a-Car etc.
  • By Car: Get off the Joban Expressway from Yumoto IC (from there it’s a 15 minute drive).

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT NEAR SHOKO KANAZAWA ART MUSEUM

SHOKUJI TOKORO OKAME

Want somewhere close by to Iwaki Yumoto Station to eat traditional Japanese food? I recommend Shokuji Tokoro Okame (食事処おかめ) . I don’t have a photo, but it’s a really cute, cosy izakaya-style restaurant which serves cheap lunches with very generous portions. I had a really delicious meal there which was served with lots of tofu and tomato. See its location here.

IWAKI YUMOTO ONSEN’S HOT SPRINGS

Various onsen hot springs in Iwaki Yumoto Onsen Town. Read here for more.

IWAKI FC PARK

Enjoy some great food at Red & Blue Café, located inside Iwaki FC Park, or pop over to the bar next door which sells pizza and a big range of craft beers on tap!

SPA RESORT HAWAIIANS

See a Polynesian-inspired dance show & enjoy the water parks at Spa Resort Hawaiians. See here for more info.

CHINAN SHOKUDO

Eat some really good ramen at Chinan Shokudo (チナン食堂).

HORURU

Get up close & personal with some dinosaurs at Horuru (Iwaki City’s Coal & Fossil Museum). See here for more info.

AQUAMARINE FUKUSHIMA

Lose yourself among the amazing exhibitions at Aquamarine Fukushima (See here for more info.)

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  1. Useful Information

    Meaningful Travel Experiences in Fukushima

    Apart from exploring Fukushima’s extraordinary landscapes and indulging in its cuisine, plenty of travelers seek opportunities to engage with local communities through hands-on experiences. Japan’s third-largest prefecture, Fukushima, has a diverse and rich history, which is reflected in the variety of activities that visitors can enjoy. Here are some meaningful travel experiences unique to Fukushima.1. Explore the Extreme Side of Fukushima: Ebisu Circuit Drift Taxi Experience & Extreme Onsen (available April-November)Fukushima’s central area is home to active volcanos and mind-bending cliffs that make even experienced hikers jitter with adrenaline. It is no surprise, therefore, that two of the most extreme activities in the prefecture can be enjoyed in this region.The Drift Taxi Experience at the Ebisu Circuit in Nihonmatsu is a thrilling drift ride by a seasoned driver who takes participants through several courses full of twists, turns, and speed. It is the most popular experience on our website and offers a rare opportunity to drift in Japan alongside famous drivers.The Extreme Onsen Experience at Numajiri Onsen is another unique and popular activity. Alongside a guide, you will hike through volcanic terrain to reach a wild hot springs river source where you can soak in and contemplate the surrounding mountain peaks. This experience is perfect for those looking for an adventure, as it combines outdoor sports and relaxing in wild hot springs. Additionally, participants enter the hot springs in a swimsuit (and those with tattoos are also welcome!). 2. Get Creative and Make Your Own SouvenirsBy participating in a craft workshop, you can learn about traditional crafts hands-on by making your own. This helps craftspeople continue to develop their industry while encouraging others to learn about and appreciate their work—plus, you get to take home a unique souvenir. Here are some craft workshops you can join in Fukushima: In Aizu-Wakamatsu, you can paint your own Akabeko (Fukushima’s lucky red cow) at a souvenir shop a short walk away from the Tsurugajo Castle, or paint on lacquerware using traditional techniques at Suzuzen, a lacquerware shop and museum. Takashiba Dekoyashiki, also known as Takashiba Craft Village, is a traditional crafts-making village that looks suspended in time. Here, you can paint a papier-mâché fox mask, and explore the fascinating history of its close-knit community. Even today you can make washi, traditional Japanese paper, by hand in Nihonmatsu. The area has a history of over 1,000 years producing Kami-Kawasaki Washi paper, a local variety of Washi paper. At its Washi Denshokan (Washi Traditional Crafts Gallery) you can make a postcard out of washi and decorate a lampshade. You can assemble a tatami coaster at Tatami Village in Sukagawa City. Kuboki Tatami is a centuries-old family business that has honed the skill of producing and manufacturing tatami mats.3. Pick Your Own Fruit at Japan’s ‘Fruit Kingdom’Eating locally-grown food is a great option to make your travel more sustainable, and there is a wide variety of locally sourced produce to try in Fukushima. Apart from the many restaurants that use local ingredients, several farms and orchards offer a 30-minute all-you-can-pick course in which you can taste seasonal fruit (typically available from late June to December). You can book a fruit-picking experience at Marusei Orchard, for instance, and afterward, visit their cafe to try their delicious fruit parfaits.4. Traverse the Mugenkyo Ravine by Ferry BoatMugenkyo no Watashi is a ferry boat that traverses the Tadami River in Western Fukushima Prefecture. The ride is the brainchild of a local man, Hoshi-san, whose hometown disappeared due to a landslide. Refusing to let the beauty of the area disappear forever, he decided to craft an experience for others to see the stunning natural scapes while traversing the Tadami River, which often gets misty, creating a mysterious atmosphere. During this peaceful boat ride, you can sit back and relax to the sounds of nature as Hoshi-san and/or someone from his team takes you on a relaxing ride. The experience is only offered from spring to autumn each year (roughly from April to November) due to heavy snowfall in the area during winter.5. Make the Local Noodle SpecialtiesNoodles are a key ingredient in some of the most famous dishes in Japanese cuisine, and a few signature foods in Fukushima. Kitakata ramen is considered one of Japan’s big three ramen varieties, and visitors to Kitakata City can not only taste this delicious dish but also try their hand at making it under the guidance of a local expert (and then enjoy a delicious bowl of handmade ramen complete with toppings). The city is all about ramen, to the point that they famously have a tradition of enjoying ramen for breakfast (known as asa-ra!).Also famous is Ouchi-juku’s negi-soba, a bowl of buckwheat noodles topped with grated daikon radish and eaten with a green onion as a utensil. At Ouchi-juku’s soba dojo, you can make the noodles from scratch, after which the staff will boil them for you and prepare the rest of the ingredients. Wait a few minutes, and you can enjoy a steamy bowl of negi-soba of your own making before you go back to exploring the town.Note: The Ouchi-juku buckwheat (soba) noodles are typically made using a mix of buckwheat and wheat flour, but it is possible to request an alternative version using only buckwheat flour (which would make the noodles gluten-free). Please note, however, that there may be cross-contamination, as regular noodles are prepared in the same space.More Experiences AwaitFrom learning samurai martial arts to riding a horse along the coast, there are many more activities to try in Fukushima, which you can request directly through our website. Once you place your booking, we will contact the provider and let you know within a few days whether the date and time you requested are available. If you have any questions about visiting Fukushima or booking experiences through our website, please feel free to send us a message!

    Meaningful Travel Experiences in Fukushima
  2. Destination Spotlight

    5 Things to Do in Showa Village

    ‘Showa’ in Japanese marks a historical period that spanned from 1926 to 1989. Nowadays, the term is sometimes used to describe something retro, vintage, or nostalgic. Coincidentally, there is a village called Showa in Oku-Aizu, a tranquil mountainous region in Western Fukushima Prefecture, and the name seems fitting. Driving through Showa’s winding roads and quaint traditional houses and businesses feels both nostalgic and insightful. With a population of just over a thousand people and no train lines, in this quiet village, you can experience the charm and quietness of Japanese countryside life.If you are planning a trip to the widely overlooked Oku-Aizu area and are considering spending the day in Showa, here are some of the attractions we recommend visiting:1. Visit the Historical Kuimaru Elementary SchoolKuimaru Elementary School was open from 1937 until it closed in 1980 after being replaced by a newer school building. Although no longer operating as a school, Kuimaru was preserved, along with its old desks and vintage books. Walking through the hallways, it feels as if the bell might ring and students will come into class at any moment!What is more, in front of the school stands a towering ginkgo tree that is an attraction in itself, particularly during the autumn when its leaves turn golden. There is also a cafe, 蕎麦カフェ SCHOLA, famous for its galettes made of 100% buckwheat flour. You can read more about the Kuimaru Elementary School here.2. Have Fun at Chansey’s Lucky ParkDid you know that Chansey is Fukushima Prefecture’s support Pokémon? One of the four Chansey’s lucky Parks in the prefecture can be found at the Michi-no-Eki Karamushi Ori-no-Sato (Roadside Station) in Showa Village. While the park is a little smaller than other Chansey’s Lucky Parks, it has several photogenic Pokémon-themed attractions. While you are there, we recommend looking for the unique Showa village-themed Poké Lid (utility hole) featuring Chansey!3. Try Ramie Weaving at the Michi-no-Eki Karamushi Ori-no-Sato (Roadside Station)Ranging from delicately woven shirts to sturdy mats, a wide range of items made of ramie fiber have been produced in Showa Village for around 600 years. The village prides itself in its long tradition of craftsmanship, and it is one of the few places where ramie (karamushi in Japanese) is still commercially cultivated in Japan. Apart from learning about ramie production and seeing the ramie varieties at the garden next to the roadside station, you can also weave a ramie souvenir! At the Michi-no-Eki Karamushi Ori-no-Sato (roadside station), you can make a ramie coaster to take home.On site, you will also find a restaurant offering the area’s staple lunches, like buckwheat noodles, ramen, and tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets). There is also a souvenir shop.4. Climb to a Viewpoint to See the Entire VillagePerhaps the most photogenic view of the village can be found at a viewpoint located at the Okuaizu Showa no Mori Campsite. From there, you can see just how picturesque its traditional houses look surrounded by the lush mountains. The viewpoint can be accessed after hiking up a hill from the parking lot of the campsite. If you visit during the early morning, particularly in the autumn, you might be lucky enough to see a barrage of clouds rapidly passing through the mountains, a phenomenon known as unkai, or sea of clouds.5. Relax in the Area’s Natural ReservesShowa is not densely populated, and its vast forests are lush with vegetation. A recommended spot, particularly during autumn, is the Yanohara Marsh, where the vivid colors of the leaves reflect on the marsh creating a picturesque scene. Another popular spot is the Takashimizu Nature Park in nearby Minamiaizu Town. There, you will encounter a million Himesayuri flowers, highly treasured by the locals, which bloom between mid-June to early July. Please note, however, that there are wild animals in many of the green spaces of Showa and its surroundings, so take due precautions and hike safely!Visiting Showa VillageThe best way to get to Showa is by car, as there are no trains that travel to or within Showa, and buses that connect it with nearby towns are scarce. By car, Showa is about 1 hour and 10 minutes from Aizu-Wakamatsu City, or about 45 minutes from Ouchi-juku.Related LinksChansey’s Lucky Parks and Poké Lids: Must-See Pokémon Attractions in Fukushima5 Reasons to Visit Mishima Town2 Day Road Trip to Oku-Aizu

    5 Things to Do in Showa Village
  3. Destination Spotlight

    6 Destinations to See in Fukushima With the Japan Rail Pass

    About the Japan Rail Pass & the Japan Rail Pass TohokuThe Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) is a travel pass that allows foreign visitors in Japan to ride freely on JR lines, shinkansen (bullet trains), and JR buses for a set price during a fixed period.The Japan Rail Pass Tohoku (JR Pass Tohoku) is another travel pass available for both foreign visitors and foreign residents in Japan that allows for unlimited travel within a designated area comprising some parts of Kanto (Tokyo, Yokohama, Chiba, etc.) and Tohoku (Fukushima, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata, and Aomori) during a set period.In this post, we introduce attractions and experiences in Fukushima Prefecture that are easily accessible for visitors both on the regular JR Pass and the JR Pass Tohoku. Trips on the JR PassAizu Area1. Immerse Yourself in Samurai History in Aizu-Wakamatsu CityIt is no wonder why Aizu-Wakamatsu is one of the main attractions in Fukushima. This historical city was one of the last strongholds of the samurai and is packed with beautiful natural attractions and historical sites, like Tsurugajo Castle or Sazaedo temple. You can reach Aizu-Wakamatsu Station from Tokyo in approx. 3 hours (bullet train + local JR line train, fully covered by either of the JR passes).ℹ️ To move comfortably around the city it is best to rent a car or buy a one-day pass for the local loop bus (600 yen, not included in the JR Pass) that will take you to the main attractions. 2 Days in Aizu-Wakamatsu  Recommended seasons:  Year-round 2. Take a scenic train ride on the JR Tadami LineSome train rides are not just a means of transport, but an attraction in themselves. That is the case of the JR Tadami Line trains that run between Aizu-Wakamatsu City in Fukushima Prefecture and Koide in Niigata Prefecture. Known for its stunning views of rural towns, rice fields, and forest-covered mountains, this is a famous scenic train ride that is growing in popularity among visitors.ℹ️JR Tadami Line trains only run a few times a day, so please check the schedule before your visit.ℹ️Note that only the stretch between Aizu-Wakamatsu Station and Tadami Station is covered by the JR Pass Tohoku.ℹ️Trains may become canceled due to heavy snowfall in the winter (December-March). Tadami Line: 5 Sights You Shouldn't Miss Recommended seasons:  Year-round Central Area3. Shirakawa: Komine Castle, Specialty Ramen & Daruma PaintingThe beautifully restored Komine Castle, with its striking black-and-white structure and lush gardens, is a powerful symbol of Shirakawa, located only a few minutes walk from the JR Shirakawa Station (only a short train ride away on the JR Tohoku Line from the Shin-Shirakawa shinkansen Station).After exploring the castle, indulge in a bowl of hearty ramen (a specialty of the area) and end your visit to Shirakawa by shopping for a Daruma lucky doll at the nearby Daruma Land. If you would like to explore more, take a local bus (not included in the JR Pass) to a very special park that looks breathtaking in the autumn and spring.  More about this route Recommended seasons:  Cherry blossom season (typically mid-April to early May) Autumn foliage season (typically late October to early November) February 11 (Shirakawa Daruma Market) 4. Nihonmatsu: Kasumigajo Castle Grounds, Sake Tasting & Drift Taxi ExperienceNihonmatsu is an area with natural features that make it perfect for the cultivation of rice and the production of sake. After arriving at the JR Nihonmatsu Station, visit the Kasumigajo Castle Grounds, and go sake tasting at a local brewery. If you are feeling adventurous, why not try the Drift Taxi Experience at the Ebisu Circuit? You will need to make a reservation beforehand and arrange how to get there in advance, but the thrill of the experience will surely be unforgettable. Recommended seasons:  Cherry blossom season (typically around mid-April). Each year there are ‘sakura matsuri’ (cherry blossom festivals) celebrated at the Kasumigajo Castle Grounds. Autumn festivals (October-mid November). The Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival is held every year on the first Saturday, Sunday, and Monday of October, while the Nihonmatsu Chrysanthemum Doll Festival (Nihonmatsu Kiku Ningyo) is held from Mid-October to Mid-November each year. The Ebisu Circuit is typically unavailable during the winter (December-April). Coastal Area5. Ride next to the seaside on the JR Joban LineThe JR Joban Line connects the Tokyo area to Sendai through Chiba, Ibaraki, and Fukushima Prefectures. You can enjoy a scenic ride along the seaside in Fukushima’s coastal area, stop by Yumoto Onsen, or visit a famous novelist’s book cafe in Odaka Station. Wherever you choose to stop, you are sure to enjoy the best views of the Pacific Ocean through the train window. Recommended seasons:  All year Two Days in Iwaki6. Learn about Fukushima’s reconstruction in FutabaFutaba town was profoundly affected by the triple disaster of 2011 and has now become a powerful symbol of Fukushima’s recovery. Although the town had to be evacuated in 2011, some of the evacuation orders were lifted, and new initiatives, such as the Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum, and the Futaba Art District, revitalized the area. Visitors can walk around the town and visit the museum to learn more about Fukushima’s recent history and recovery. Recommended seasons:  All year Upon arriving, consider renting a free bicycle from the Futaba Station (100-yen deposit system), and cycle to The Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum and The Remains of Ukedo Elementary School in Namie Town (both have bicycle parking available). Check here for more details about this model route.Shinkansen and JR Trains in FukushimaFukushima has three Shinkansen Stations: Shin-Shirakawa, Koriyama, and Fukushima. To reach Fukushima from Tokyo, you can take either the JR Tohoku Shinkansen or the JR Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo Station or Ueno Station and get off at any of the three stations mentioned above. It is also possible to reach Fukushima by highway bus, local JR trains, and more. See our Access page for more information about getting to Fukushima.Please bear in mind that local trains and buses have fewer frequencies than in big cities like Tokyo, Osaka, etc., so we recommend checking the schedules before you travel.

    6 Destinations to See in Fukushima With the Japan Rail Pass
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