Destination Spotlight

Shoko Kanazawa Calligraphy Art Museum In Iwaki

Published on
Shoko Kanazawa Calligraphy Art Museum In Iwaki

The Shoko Kanazawa Art Museum in Iwaki City is home to many fantastic pieces of calligraphy created by Shoko Kanazawa, an artist who was born with Down syndrome.

The art museum shares its location with a kimono museum called Kimononoyakata Marusan (which contains the world’s largest kimono!) and a beautiful garden inspired by the traditional Japanese gardens of Kyoto.

I was really moved by Shoko’s beautiful and emotive calligraphy when I visited the Shoko Kanazawa Art Museum.

I’ve practised shuji (calligraphy) before, so I can only imagine the amount of time it takes to produce the artistic form of calligraphy referred to as shodo in Japanese. Many shodo artists imagine the form they want their brushstrokes to take before starting a piece. The sheer size of her pieces also gives Shoko an extra challenge.

ABOUT SHOKO KANAZAWA & HER ART

Shoko started practising shodo (Japanese expressive calligraphy) at the age of 5 years old, inspired by her mother, who is also a shodo artist.

Shoko’s work was first exhibited publicly in 2005, and the Shoko Kanazawa Art Museum was opened in 2012, following the Great East Japan Earthquake.

Many of the key works at the Art Museum, including the piece featured below which stands in the main hall, are related to the Great East Japan Earthquake, and express Shoko’s hopes for the reconstruction of the areas on the coast affected by the events that followed the triple disaster.

The piece above contains the kanji words 共に生きる（tomo ni ikiru), which can be translated as “to live together”. The meaning of this work is left up to the viewer, but it’s likely that it refers to humans living together with natural disaster, or the need for communities to pull together after a disaster to move forward.

Another piece related to post-3.11 reconstruction is 希望光 (kibou hikari), which translates as “the shining light of hope”. The message is concise, and the viewer can really feel Shoko’s emotion through the size and style of her characters.

One more connection between Shoko and the events of 3.11 is the use of her calligraphy as the logo for the Onahama Marine Bridge – this bridge was opened during certain hours for the public from last August, and is a symbol of reconstruction for the people of Iwaki City.

I found her calligraphy to be very moving, especially the piece which is shown in the photograph below. The calligraphy says 福は内　鬼も内 (fuku wa uchi, oni mo uchi). This phrase relates to the Japanese tradition of Setsubun, which takes place in early February every year.

During Setsubun, family members throw beans out the doors of their house – or throw them at a member of the family wearing a devil / demon mask – as a symbol of purifying their homes. During Setsubun, the phrase ‘fuku wa uchi, oni wa soto‘ (Luck stays inside, demons stay outside).

In Shoko’s piece, she changes this well known phrase to mean “Luck stays inside, demons also stay inside”. When asked about the creation of this piece, Shoko said that she felt sad for the demons, and felt like they would be lonely if kept outside alone! I think this message is really moving, and also that this pieces demonstrates Shoko’s personality very clearly.

As well as viewing Shoko’s art, visitors can also experience holding tools that Shoko uses to create her compositions. A number of the brushes she uses are on display, a long with an example of the size and type of paper she uses.

When I tried out her tools, I realised just how much you have to use your whole body to smoothly bring the brush over the page – creating work this big must be a really good workout! I can imagine myself making so many mistakes…

Shoko regularly does calligraphy demonstrations at public events throughout the year, and is always accompanied by her mother.

Shoko, now in her thirties, lives by herself, and is an amazing role-model, as her status as a public figure allows her to communicate and share with her home country, and the world, about her experience as a person with a disability.

READ MORE ABOUT SHOKO KANAZAWA

VISITING THE SHOKO KANAZAWA ART MUSEUM

  • Opening Hours: 10:00 to 16:00 (last entry at 15:30)
    Closed on Tues / Weds unless on a National Holiday (in which case, the following day the museum will be closed). Closed at the end of the year / new year
  • Price: 800 yen per adult. 400 yen for those with a disability. (Free for elementary school kids)

REACHING THE MUSEUM

See here for travel information about getting to Iwaki Yumoto Station.

  • By Public Transport: Take the train to Yumoto Station. From there the museum is a 20 minute taxi ride.
    There is also the option of renting a car near Iwaki Station and driving there using a Rental Car company such as Times Rentacar, Nippon Rentacar, JR Rent-a-Car etc.
  • By Car: Get off the Joban Expressway from Yumoto IC (from there it’s a 15 minute drive).

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT NEAR SHOKO KANAZAWA ART MUSEUM

SHOKUJI TOKORO OKAME

Want somewhere close by to Iwaki Yumoto Station to eat traditional Japanese food? I recommend Shokuji Tokoro Okame (食事処おかめ) . I don’t have a photo, but it’s a really cute, cosy izakaya-style restaurant which serves cheap lunches with very generous portions. I had a really delicious meal there which was served with lots of tofu and tomato. See its location here.

IWAKI YUMOTO ONSEN’S HOT SPRINGS

Various onsen hot springs in Iwaki Yumoto Onsen Town. Read here for more.

IWAKI FC PARK

Enjoy some great food at Red & Blue Café, located inside Iwaki FC Park, or pop over to the bar next door which sells pizza and a big range of craft beers on tap!

SPA RESORT HAWAIIANS

See a Polynesian-inspired dance show & enjoy the water parks at Spa Resort Hawaiians. See here for more info.

CHINAN SHOKUDO

Eat some really good ramen at Chinan Shokudo (チナン食堂).

HORURU

Get up close & personal with some dinosaurs at Horuru (Iwaki City’s Coal & Fossil Museum). See here for more info.

AQUAMARINE FUKUSHIMA

Lose yourself among the amazing exhibitions at Aquamarine Fukushima (See here for more info.)

Latest posts

  1. Destination Spotlight

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath: A Forest Walk in Nishigo

    The tranquil village of Nishigo (西郷村) is situated just west of Shirakawa City, a naturally abundant region at the south of Fukushima Prefecture. We met with a group of community leaders, tour guides and members of the local government to take a Foothpath Tour around its many sights.What is a Footpath Tour?Inspired by the British culture of taking countryside walks in spots of natural greenery, Fukushima Footpath Tours encourage visitors to local areas to wander around and explore the nearby region.In particular, by walking through smaller and lesser known areas, eating at local restaurants, and interacting with town residents, you can play a role in Fukushima's diaster recovery efforts.A big part of the intrigue is visiting an area that people are less likely to frequent than famous tourist sites and discovering interesting places - perfect for people who like taking photos!Although there are self-guided tours available - take a look at our guides for Katsurao and Tamura - our tour featured about twenty visitors, and was led by a local long-term resident.Getting Back to NatureMy outstanding impression of our tour - and this, suitably enough, reminds me of similar walks back in the UK - was the abundance of woodland and the fantastic scenery.Our group worked its way through narrow corridors of beautiful pine trees, the terrain occasionally sloping up into the canopy, and wherever we went, we stumbled on to something interesting. Most striking was when we came to a clearing on the banks of the Abukuma River.We took a break here to take in the scenery. Later, when we shared our opinions of the tour, this was the highlight for many of us, thanks to the calm atmosphere and relaxing sound of the flowing river.Some people took this time to skip stones or try out the tree swing.Hidden TreasuresOne of the benefits of having a local resident show you around is that wherever you go, you can ask questions about the things you stumble across. Our guide also often pointed out local stores and workshops and told us about the crafts or folk art that they specialised in.The deeper we went into the woods, we also found some old abandoned houses, which had an intriguing, eerie atmosphere, and the local Christian church.A Well-Earned RestBy the time we made it back to base camp, we'd been walking for about two hours, doing a loop of the main woodland area of Nishigo. We were starting to run low on energy, making it the perfect time for lunch - our guide had been cooking since before we arrived, and a huge pot of Japanese curry had been bubbling the entire time we'd been walking.That meant the flavours had infused deeply into the sauce, and combined with the use of local Nishigo vegetables and rice, this was exactly what we needed after a long walk.Our tour was a really valuable experience - for me, the main attraction was having the chance to visit somewhere most tourists wouldn't usually go, learning about the area from someone who knows it well, and enjoying the peaceful woodland atmosphere.More informationInterested in trying a Footpath Tour for yourself? You can learn more here (please be aware that this page is in Japanese). 

    Following Fukushima’s Footpath: A Forest Walk in Nishigo
  2. Destination Spotlight

    Among a Sea of Clouds – Climbing Mt. Issaikyo

    Learn more about Mt. Issaikyo on our dedicated webpage. Despite Japan being such a mountainous country, and having lived here for several years, I was surprised to realise I’d never climbed to the summit of a Japanese mountain before. But that all changed recently when I attempted – and defeated, just about – the rugged trip up Mt. Issaikyo, one of Fukushima’s most popular hikes.Here's all the information about not only my trip, but how you can take on this challenge as well.Base Camp: JododairaOverlooking the Jododaira Plateau, the summit of Mt. Issaikyo (1,949m) is one of several possible trips from the Jododaira Visitor Center to different areas of the surrounding Azuma-Bandai mountain range.Many visitors head for the Kamanuma pond to the west or Okenuma pond to the south, both of which offer spectacular views over the water and are particularly stunning when the leaves change colours in autumn. Both of these trips, as well as the climb up to the nearby Mt. Azuma-Kofuji crater, are shorter and less intensive walks accessible to any experience level.The nearby Visitor Center is also a great spot to enjoy lunch; there is a traditional shokudo (canteen) style restaurant that serves classic Japanese staples like curry and ramen. There’s also a souvenir shop, a great place to pick up snacks or Fukushima goods like the iconic akabeko red cow.The Jododaira area in general is well known as being a volcanic one – a major eruption from Mt. Azuma-Kofuji in 1888 created hundreds of lakes, including the popular Goshiki-numa, and the hot mountain spring water serves nearby onsen hotels to this day. Sometimes you’ll see local construction staff wearing gas masks to protect against volcanic gases when exposed for long working days.The Climb: Leg DayAs a first-time hiker, I was a little apprehensive about the journey to the summit, but the initial stretch of the journey was easy – a leisurely walk along the boardwalk through the marshlands heading into the foothills.From there, the path begins to become rockier, steeper and less steady, and this largely continued for the remainder of the hike. There are plenty of natural rest stops on the way, however, including a mountain hut with toilets and medical supplies in case of an emergency.Also, this route provides fantastic views over Azuma-Kofuji. Although it was easy to feel some jealousy towards the visitors who chose the easier hike (only 10 minutes up the steps from Jododaira, then a 45 minute stroll around the crater), the gorgeous weather made for some beautiful photos.Although the volcanic crater is visible further up Mt. Issaikyo, on occasion it was obscured by the rocky slope or by the shifting cloud cover, so the best photo spot was probably somewhere halfway up the ascent.This was also where we met many hikers coming back down the mountain in the opposite direction, many of whom greeted us warmly and wished us luck on our climb.The SummitBy the time we made it to the top, our tired legs and lungs certainly needed a rest, but we were rewarded with breathtaking views of pristine white clouds stretching as far as the eye could see. In contrast to the view from Azuma-Kofuji, which looks across the green expanse of Fukushima City, being surrounded by clouds made it feel like we’d stepped into another world.From here, we wandered slightly to the western part of the summit, where from over a gravelly slope we spied the view that attracts intrepid hikers from all over Japan.Known as Majo-no-Hitomi or ‘The Witch’s Eye’, this flawless lake of crystal blue is truly a sight to behold, and definitely made the tough climb worthwhile.The Descent... in the Wrong DirectionTempted for a closer look, we headed down the steep slopes that lead off the summit. The grip underfoot here can be rocky and unsteady, so this was where my hiking boots came most in handy. Once we got into the more forested areas again, the path occasionally fell away into a slight drop, too, so some very light mountaineering was required.The journey from the summit down to the Witch’s Eye took about thirty minutes, and again we were awestruck:The beauty of the lakefront was even more striking up close, making it the perfect place to stop and recharge our batteries with a quick lunch by the water. We spent another half an hour down here, taking a much-needed rest and enjoying the perfect summer weather.All that was left was to climb Mt. Issaikyo for the second time on the day, and we would be on our way home...By the time we made it back to Jododaira, the fine weather from earlier has dissipated and a deep fog had settled in.The round trip from Jododaira to the summit of Mt. Issaikyo, down to the Witch’s Eye, and back again, took us roughly five and a half hours (stopping for 30mins for lunch), and saw us walk the equivalent of 7.4km.Looking to climb Mt. Issaikyo for yourself? Some important advice: Wear sunscreen! Despite the shaded areas, large parts of the hike are exposed to the elements. Bring plenty of water, and snacks or lunch to keep your energy up! Hiking boots are highly recommended. The mountain is closed to climbers in winter.Looking for more hikes in Fukushima? Consider Mt. Adatara or Mt. Bandai.

    Among a Sea of Clouds – Climbing Mt. Issaikyo
  3. Useful Information

    How to Enjoy Fruit Picking in Fukushima: The Ultimate Guide

    Fukushima Prefecture has been called the ‘Fruit Kingdom’ for its abundance of orchards – in particular, the western half of Fukushima City is overloaded with fruit farms of all kinds and colours. This long strip of farmland is known as the ‘Fruit Line’, with over 20 orchards located in this region alone, and is one of the best places in Japan to enjoy a leisurely fruit picking experience during your trip.Unlike fruit picking in western countries, which is often an all-you-can-pick experience, fruit picking in Japan more closely resembles all-you-can-eat. You are usually given a set time period after you arrive – likely 30 minutes to an hour – during which you’re welcome to pick and eat as much fruit as you like. You’re asked not to take any fruit home with you from the picking area, although most orchards have a shop where the best of recent batches can be bought, often at a lower price than supermarkets.Choose Your SeasonOne of the unique features of an area with so many orchards – and a variable four-season climate like Fukushima’s – is that there’s something delicious in season almost the whole year round. Since Fukushima is Japan’s second-largest exporter of peaches, they are one of the prefecture’s biggest symbols, and you’ll see them on billboards and posters wherever you go. That makes peach-picking season – roughly mid-July through September – one of the most popular times to visit the Fruit Line, and the peaches are first-rate no matter which orchard you visit.Also extremely popular is strawberry picking, available from November all the way through to May, and apple picking is also a big hit between August and December. These are the main exports of the famous Fruit Line, but depending on the season you can visit and taste everything from cherries and blueberries in summer to grapes and Japanese pears (nashi) in autumn.What to ExpectThe procedure is slightly different for each orchard – some stores have a ticket vending machine, others you pay at the front counter – but on the whole, orchard staff are very familiar with overseas visitors and will be happy to help you. During the fruit picking experience, a member of the fruit picking staff will explain how to recognise the difference between ripe fruit and non-ripe, and many orchards also have fruit on nearby tables that has been recently picked and is also free for you to eat. Depending on the fruit you’re picking, you may also be given a bucket (for example, for peach skins or pits) and a small knife to cut fruit or peel skin (although fruits like peaches and apples are arguably sweeter with the skin still on). Although English explanations are rarer, it’s relatively easy to understand the staff via gestures and demonstrations.After your time is up, retire to the main shop of the orchard to browse the local products – juices and jams are especially popular and make for good gifts. Marusei Orchard in particular boasts an onsite café that uses their own produce in a variety of sweet treats and parfaits, and there are pictures to help you decide.Getting to the Fruit LineSince buses are available but infrequent, and the Fruit Line is littered with orchards run by different families and companies, using a car or bicycle offers more freedom to explore the area and enjoy the local scenery. Here are our recommendations for getting to the Fruit Kingdom for yourself...Car RentalRenting a car in Japan is an excellent way to get around, and the sign-up process is surprisingly easy. In Fukushima City there are three rental stores close to the west exit of the bullet train station: the JR rental store located near the west exit bus stops; the Toyota store opposite the west exit courtyard; and the Orix store one block further west. All three offer single-day rentals (small ‘kei’ cars have four seats and are the most affordable option) and can be booked online with English support.On the day of the rental, go to the store and state your name. After checking your paperwork and ID, the store staff will ask you to inspect the car for damage, and mark any scratches or dents on their inspection sheet so you’re not charged when returning the vehicle. If required, the staff can also change the car’s navigation system to English.In order to drive in Japan, visitors must obtain an International Driver’s Permit and keep it on their person at all times while driving. You also must show the permit to staff during the rental process.JR Rent-a-car / Toyota / OrixBicycle RentalExploring the countryside on a rental bicycle is one of the best ways to experience Japan – when the weather is nice – and it’s a great way to ‘hop’ multiple orchards if you’re looking to peruse the local products. Despite being ringed to the west by the Azuma mountain range, the Fruit Line is largely flat with a splendid green atmosphere, with most roads being flanked by fruit trees.As an example, if going to Marusei Orchard, take the Izaka Line to its final station of Iizaka-onsen (approx. 20mins), and rent cycles at the station. From there, take a leisurely bike ride headed west for about 10-15 minutes until you arrive at the orchard. (This itinerary would also work for visiting any orchard on the Fruit Line by bicycle.)TaxiTaxis are plentiful and available from the west exit of Fukushima Station, with drivers very familiar with the layout of the Fruit Line and able to drop you at any orchard of your choice. If returning to Fukushima Station, the orchard staff would be able to call a taxi to pick you up. However, since a round trip to the west of the city would likely cost around 7,000 yen – roughly the same price of a rental car for the day – it may be worth considering driving yourself or taking a train and renting bicycles.To learn more about the Fruit Kingdom and book your spot, visit our reservation page.

    How to Enjoy Fruit Picking in Fukushima: The Ultimate Guide
Show All (128)
Top