Oku-Aizu Museum

I recommending a visit to the Oku-Aizu Museum to anybody traveling around Aizu-Tajima area, especially to those who might have visited the Aizu-Tajima Gion Festival. It takes 15 minutes to reach Oku-Aizu Museum from Aizu-Tajima Station if travelling by car, and 30 minutes if using public transport.

 

OLD JAPANESE-STYLE HOUSES

Like Fukushima City Minka-en Open Air Museum in Fukushima City, Oku-Aizu Museum is home to a number of kominka (古民家) – which translates as ‘old Japanese-style houses‘ – which, over the years, have been brought to and maintained at the museum.

These houses are spread out across a small park – all of them a short walk away from the main museum building. The park is really scenic, especially at the end of July when I visited, which is when the hyacinth were in bloom.

A majority of the buildings that stand in the grounds of Oku-Aizu Museum are former residences of local farming families. Here’s some information about a majority of the buildings on display, as well as ideas for how to spend your time at the museum.

 


FORMER IMATA FAMILY FARM HOUSE

The Former Imata Family Farm House is the oldest residential building at Oku-Aizu Museum, dating back to the early 18th century. If you step inside, you’ll see that half the flooring is covered in tatami, while half is laid bare. This is because the house was used as both a home and also a workspace, and therefore there need to be an area to do farm-related duties. Due to the incredibly heavy snowfall in winter, it was important for as much work as possible to be done inside the house.

DYE WORKSHOP (FORMER SUGIHARA FAMILY FARM HOUSE)

The Dye Workshop at the Former Sugihara Family Farm House is probably my favourite old Japanese-style building at the museum. This dye workshop dates back to the late 18th century. It was used as a place for dyeing fabric from the mid-Edo Period (1800s) through to 1965. Visiting this house, you can really get a feel for how it must have been to work here hundreds of years ago.

Aizu is particularly well known for its Aozome 藍染め, or ‘indigo dye’. The dye was often used on Aizu Momen (the name used to refer to cotton made in Aizu) and other locally-produced fabrics. The dye was also used for dying banners to be used at the nearby Gion Festival.

One very special thing about Oku-Aizu Museum is that visitors actually get a chance to try out traditional techniques for dyeing fabric with indigo in this very building! You can do a tie-dye experience  or – if you’ve got a bit more time – try out stencil dyeing (which has to be done over 2 days). Visitors coming in a group of 5 or more people can take part in these activities from May to October every year.

I’d recommend contacting the museum in advance in order to increase the chances of staff being present on the day who’ll be able to help explain the process to visitors who don’t understand Japanese.

 


WOODCRAFTSMAN HUT

This hut was built in the late 17th century, and was used by wood craftsmen travelling in local woods in order to gather materials for producing their products. Many wood craftsmen from Oku-Aizu would craft and shape their wood so that it could be used as Aizu Lacquerware in the future. See here for more about Aizu Lacquerware!

I really loved the ‘hairy’ look of this hut, so I had to include this photo in this article! I’m guessing the thatched roof and sides of the building were covered in straw to prevent damage from heavy snow that falls during this area in winter.

 


SANNOJAYA TEA ROOM

One of the things that makes the Oku-Aizu Museum really stand out for me is that visitors can have lunch (or cake & a coffee) in one of the old Japanese-style houses! Sannojaya Tea Room was originally used as a tea room before being moved to the museum and it continues to be used to entertain guests to this day.

I love the open-plan design of the building – it’s very easy to relax here, sitting on the tatami, gazing out at the museum park. The food and drink is really yummy. I’ve been twice now, and in particular, I recommend the sake lees cheese cake! Please check Google Maps for the cafe's opening hours.

As of 2023, the Sannojaya Tea Room is temporarily closed. We apologize for the inconvenience.


INSIDE THE MAIN EXHIBITION HALL

It’s not just the old Japanese-style houses outside that are fascinating, there are also so many interesting artefacts to see inside the main exhibition hall. Over the years, the museum has collected over 24,000 items – over 5,000 of which are considered as Nationally Important Cultural Items – and there are 3,000 on display to visitors.

The main exhibition hall gives visitors the opportunity to learn about life in Oku-Aizu. The items on display really help make everything come to life – from the important roles that wood craftsmen and merchants played in local society and they went about their daily lives, to the ways that the people of Oku-Aizu have adapted to the harsh winter conditions of living in Oku-Aizu / Minamiaizu.

Even though there are no English signs at the museum as of yet, a lot can be picked up from taking your time to look around the museum and looking at the items on display.

VISITING OKU-AIZU MUSEUM

Opening Hours:

Access:

  • 15 minute (Approx. 1km) walk from Aizu Sanson Dojo Station on the Aizu Railways Line. This train station can be directly reached by Asakusa Station, Aizu-Tajima Station and Aizu-Wakamatsu Station.

 

 

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    A Guide to the Aizu Festival – And How to Join Yourself

    If, like me, you’ve been watching Shogun on Disney+ and been blown away by its dramatic depiction of Japan’s Sengoku (warring states) era, you might be interested in learning more about samurai history during your trip to Japan.Fortunately, there are plenty of options for someone looking to get involved with samurai culture.Tsurugajo Castle severely damaged after the Siege of Aizu in 1868.The Shogun’s Last StandOne of the best places for this is the historic city of Aizu-Wakamatsu on the west side of Fukushima Prefecture. Before the advent of prefectures in the Meiji Restoration, this region was ruled by the Aizu Domain, a powerful clan of samurai who remained loyal to the shogun even after ruling authority was returned to the Emperor in the 1860s.This culminated in the Boshin War of 1868, when imperial forces moved north and besieged Tsurugajo Castle at the heart of the Aizu Domain’s sphere of influence. Though the defenders were ultimately defeated by the Emperor’s modernised troops, the fortress remained standing, and this would be remembered as one of the final battlefields of Japan’s shogunate history, before it became what we recognise as ‘modern’ Japan.The Aizu FestivalAlthough Aizu is now incorporated into the wider Fukushima Prefecture, the roots to its powerful ancestor run deep in this part of the country. Local people come together every September to hold the Aizu Festival, honouring the warriors who walked these roads centuries ago with a series of events, processions and performances.Most notable is the parade on the Sunday of the festival. Schools, organisations and local residents of all ages dress in the traditional garb of every strata of Aizu clan society, and walk through the city streets waving to hundreds of attendees. Possibly most striking are the samurai lords, who proceed on horseback.Popular actress Ayase Haruka, who played the ‘Japanese Joan-of-Arc’ Nijima Yae in an NHK drama in 2013, reprises her role every year in the procession and gives a speech before the main parade.The procession starts with a short walk through the grounds of Tsurugajo Castle itself, leading to an opening ceremony held on the lawn under the shadow of the fortress.The samurai lords sit together on the dais, while an announcer heralds each samurai troop that enters the field. This also includes Western historical figures of import and significant noblewomen of the time in traditional dress.Once all the participants have entered and taken their seats, the opening ceremony takes place, with speeches from the city mayor and visiting dignitaries, samurai performances, and gunnery displays.This ceremony is also viewable to the general public, although it’s best to get to the castle early as the spectators’ area typically gets busy.How to Join the ProcessionThe 2024 rendition of the Aizu Festival was beset by heavy rain, but visitors still turned out in huge numbers to watch the procession. This also included an international troop comprised of local residents from a variety of countries: England, Scotland, Canada, the US, Australia, Taiwan and Japan.This experience, organised by a local tour company, is aimed at making Japanese culture more accessible to residents and visitors from overseas. It also included an English-speaking guide, who explained to us not only about the history of the area, but helped with logistical elements – how to dress in the traditional gear, where to go, and how to put our swords away properly...Our troop dressed in the dark navy armour of foot soldiers of the Aizu gunnery units, who were trained both in muskets for ranged combat and katana-style samurai swords for melee. As such, each soldier of the troop was given one of each, as well as a banner of the Aizu Domain (which, for the record, is very easy to bump against door frames and street signs).With the onset of the bad weather, the festival organisers made the difficult decision to protect the traditional armour from water damage with protective rain gear. 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Try the monthly kengido experience, learning samurai sword techniques in a historic dojo in the mountains.

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    Learn more about Mt. Issaikyo on our dedicated webpage. Despite Japan being such a mountainous country, and having lived here for several years, I was surprised to realise I’d never climbed to the summit of a Japanese mountain before. But that all changed recently when I attempted – and defeated, just about – the rugged trip up Mt. Issaikyo, one of Fukushima’s most popular hikes.Here's all the information about not only my trip, but how you can take on this challenge as well.Base Camp: JododairaOverlooking the Jododaira Plateau, the summit of Mt. Issaikyo (1,949m) is one of several possible trips from the Jododaira Visitor Center to different areas of the surrounding Azuma-Bandai mountain range.Many visitors head for the Kamanuma pond to the west or Okenuma pond to the south, both of which offer spectacular views over the water and are particularly stunning when the leaves change colours in autumn. Both of these trips, as well as the climb up to the nearby Mt. 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    Among a Sea of Clouds – Climbing Mt. Issaikyo
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