Destination Spotlight

Iizaka Onsen & Kenka Matsuri Autumn Festival

Iizaka Onsen & Kenka Matsuri Autumn Festival

WHERE IS IIZAKA ONSEN & WHAT IS A ‘KENKA MATSURI’?

The main part of the 2024 festival, in which the parade floats crash into one another, will take place on Saturday 5th October. The parade route and local map are available in English here.

Iizaka Onsen is a quaint town built around the sources of the Iizaka Onsen hot springs. Iizaka Onsen hot spring water has been loved for over a millennium, and is well-known in Japan. Residents of Tokyo often pop up on the Shinkansen to take a dip in the relaxing waters of Iizaka Onsen!

One thing that onsen-lovers should know about Iizaka Onsen is that the hot spring water is very hot. I visited the oldest public bath in the town called ‘Sabako-yu’ on my first day in Fukushima. I’d read the English information pamphlet that said that the water was hot, but I thought “Well, I’ve been to onsen before – how hot can it be?!” Spoiler alert: hotter than you can imagine! (Around 46 degrees Celsius!)

There are plenty of onsen you can take a dip in even if you’re not a fan of hot springs that are super hot. The further away from the source you get, the cooler the water gets. Guess where Sabako-yu is? About 200m away from the source… The being said, as long as you let your body get used to the temperature gradually, it's possible to enjoy the super hot onsen too!

 

HOW CAN I EXPERIENCE A HOT SPRING IN IIZAKA ONSEN?

PUBLIC ONSEN

There are 9 public hot springs in Iizaka Onsen that you can try out for a small fee. Many of them sell small towels that you can use to dry off after bathing, so you don’t have to worry about bringing your own towel! Public onsen in Japan are almost always separated by gender – unless very clearly specified! – and are open to anyone (with the exception of people with tattoos in some cases).

Local people from Iizaka Onsen start visiting the public baths when they are very young, and visit regularly with family and friends until they are old enough to have a family of their own. They will then bring their own children to the public baths, and the cycle of onsen appreciation continues!

Public onsen are great places to meet and chat with local people and immerse yourself not only in Japanese culture but in local history and traditions!

ASHIYU （足湯）- FOOT-BATHS

There are also 3 public foot-baths in Iizaka Onsen, which are free to use, and can be visited by anyone. One of the biggest foot-baths in Iizaka Onsen is in Kyu-horikiri Tei – a traditional residence that dates back over 500 years ago.

You can find out about the names and locations of some of these public hot springs and public foot-baths on Iizaka Onsen Tourism Association’s website here!

HIGAERI NYUYOKU （日帰り入浴） – DAYTIME ONSEN

One more way to enjoy hot springs in Iizaka Onsen is to visit ryokan (traditional Japanese inns).

Many ryokan in Iizaka Onsen offer visitors the chance to take a dip in their onsen, even if you’re not staying the night.

Daytime onsen visits are available at a number of Iizaka Onsen’s many ryokan, including Hotel Juraku  & Yoshikawaya. Check out this website to see which ryokan hotels English-speaking staff.

The price of a trip to a daytime onsen ranges depending on the establishment, but tend to cost between 300 yen to 1400 yen. The more expensive the day onsen, the bigger the establishment and the better the range of baths.

 

Please note that many higaeri nyuyoku onsen only offer this daytime onsen option before 14:00 or 15:00.

Hotel Juraku is the exception to this rule, as it is open most days until 21:00.

Many ryokan in Japan have a “no tattoo” policy. If you have a tattoo, you can still enjoy onsen, but you’ll need to reserve a private bath as opposed to bathing with the locals. See this post on reserving private baths.

 

HIGHLIGHT OF IIZAKA ONSEN – KENKA MATSURI

As well as its amazing, relaxing hot spring water, Iizaka Onsen is also known for Kenka Matsuri (translates as ‘fighting festival’!), which is one of three main fighting festivals in Japan. The festival is always held on the first weekend of October.

Fighting festivals make up just one of the types of festival held in autumn in Japan. There are many shinto festivals held in autumn, after the rice harvest has taken place, as a way of thanking the gods for that year’s harvest, and to pray for the prosperity of local people who worship at the shrines.

During Iizaka Onsen’s Kenka Matsuri, 6 portable shrines (mikoshi) and 6 festival floats (yatai), are paraded around town before being brought to Hachiman Shrine in the center of Iizaka Onsen.

Each yatai represents one area of Iizaka Onsen Town, and each mikoshi belongs to one of these various areas.

The climax of the festival is reached at around 20:00 on the second day of the festival, when the yatai are brought to Hachiman Shrine – and the fighting begins.

Yatai festival stalls are decorated with lanterns, and are accompanied by the omnipresent beat of the Japanese taiko drum. The sound of the taiko drum actually reverberates from inside the yatai – where the drummer ferociously smashes at the drum for the duration of the festival.

Once these yatai reach the grounds of Hachiman Shrine, they crash into one another at great force. The reason for this is that each area of Iizaka Onsen, represented by their yatai, is trying to stop another area’s mikoshi from entering the grounds of Hachiman Shrine. Only one mikoshi can enter the shrine first, and receive good luck for the year to come.

Once the mikoshi reaches the back of the shrine, the festival is over.

WHY SHOULD I GO TO SEE IIZAKA’S KENKA MATSURI?

This festival is super exciting, and I love the atmosphere.

The evening air carries the beat of the taiko drum – which persists for the entire festival – the smell of yummy festival foods, and the surprised gasps of onlookers at the sight of floats toppling over, yatai set on first from their lanterns, and men making a narrow escape from underneath them.

I’ve never been to a Japanese festival as absorbing, exciting and lively as Kenka Matsuri.

All the participating locals involved in the festival – from young kids in school to teenagers chanting and following their respective yatai float, to grandpas passing on their traditions – truly put their hearts into the evening, which makes it extra special.

I love wandering around Iizaka Onsen on the night of main Kenka Matsuri event. It’s a great opportunity to soak up the amazing atmosphere of a town which is usually so quiet and sleepy.

Hachiman Shrine, which becomes the main stage for Kenka Matsuri, is less than a 10 minute walk from Iizaka Onsen station, meaning that even if you have a wander through the streets, it won’t take you long to get back to the action.

Unlike other festivals in Japan, Iizaka Onsen’s Kenka Matsuri is relatively unknown amongst visitors from abroad, meaning that you can have an authentic Japanese festival experience, and get to interact with the locals.

The crashing of the yatai at Hachiman Shrine usually begins at 20:30, but because it gets crowded on festival days, I recommend you get there early and visit with friends who can save your spot when you go to the loo or go to grab a beer at the food and drink stalls.

 

WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO DO IN IIZAKA ONSEN?

Aside from the festival, Iizaka Onsen is absolutely worth visiting for the excellent onsen, its picturesque streets, adorable cafés and kind local people.

Iizaka Onsen is also home to the Buddhist temple known as Nakano Fudoson Temple, which really leaves an impression on visitors with its mysterious cave and beautiful waterfalls.

Iizaka Onsen’s central location also lends itself to including it as part of an itinerary for a weekend away in Fukushima City. Onsen lovers can even try and compare its waters to those of Tsuchiyu Onsen or Takayu Onsen.

WHY NOT MAKE A WEEKEND OF IT?

Here’s an idea for a way to spend your weekend in Iizaka Onsen & other areas of Fukushima City during festival time!

SATURDAY OCTOBER 6

  • Travel to Iizaka Onsen from Fukushima Station via the Fukushima Transportation Iizaka Line.
  • Take the bus to Nakano Fudoson Temple and spend some time exploring the caves and waterfall!
  • Travel back to Iizaka Onsen and check in at your ryokan for the night.
  • Wander the streets in the evening during festival time.
  • Make sure to walk over to Hachiman Shrine by 20:00 (the main event of the festival begins at 20:30).
  • Enjoy the festival, try the local delicacy Enban Gyoza for dinner, and stay at a ryokan overnight.

SUNDAY OCTOBER 7

  • Spend some time exploring Iizaka Onsen by day (check out the Kyu-horiki Tei former residence, foot-baths, day onsen and cute shops).
  • Take the Iizaka Line back to Fukushima Station.
  • Have lunch in Fukushima (Ideas for restaurants here!)
  • Check out the Fukushima City Inari Shrine Autumn Festival in the afternoon and evening. See here for the location of Inari Shrine!

MORE INFORMATION

  • Check out this website for a list of places to eat in Iizaka Onsen.
  • Fukushima City’s Convention Association has prepared a decent list of restaurants and izakaya in central Fukushima City. Check it out here!

 

ACCESS

Iizaka Onsen can be reached in about 2 hours from Tokyo. Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Ueno Station or Tokyo Station to Fukushima Station (90 min), and from there take 25 min train. (See here for info about reaching Fukushima Station)

 

Latest posts

  1. Useful Information

    5 Hidden Autumn Colour Spots in Fukushima

    Fukushima Prefecture is famous for its striking autumn scenery, the mountainsides and parks across the prefecture turning vibrant shades of golds, reds, oranges, greens and browns throughout late October, November and into early December.Make sure to check out our guide to 10 famous spots, as well as our Google Maps list of every major autumn leaves area in the prefecture. But here are our top five lesser-known gems that are worth a visit this year:1. Suzumigaoka Hachiman Shrine, Soma CityLocated at the end of a road with parallel rows of cherry trees, Suzumigaoka Hachiman Shrine is a popular spot among locals in both spring's blossom season, and again in autumn. The gingko beside the main worship hall turns a vibrant yellow, and leaves cascade across the shrine grounds.All of the buildings on site are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan, and even in autumn colour season, the shrine grounds have a calming, ethereal atmosphere. It was once known as 'Soma Nikko', calling to mind the splendour of the Nikko shrine complexes in Tochigi Prefecture.Best viewing time: Late November to early DecemberAutumn is one of the best times to visit the Soma region, an area affected by the 2011 disaster but rich in natural beauty. Consider pairing your visit with a trip to nearby Baryo Park and its Soma Nakamura Shrine for more autumnal scenery.2. Isasumi Shrine, Aizu-MisatoA beautiful shrine complex with a lot to offer, Isasumi Shrine makes for a worthwhile visit during a trip to the Aizu region. The shrine grounds are beautiful in autumn, when yellow leaves can be seen throughout, and there's a park where visitors can walk through rows of vermilion torii gates and feed the ducks. (Ask at the nearby kiosk for bread!)Isasumi Shrine is a well-loved spot among Aizu locals. Once upon a time it was named a 'Daijingu' or 'Great Shrine', said to enshrine the guardian deity of the Aizu region, and was well-looked-after by the great warlords who ruled here throughout history.Best viewing time: Early to mid NovemberVisiting the storied old city of Aizu-Wakamatsu? Learn more about its samurai heritage by touring some of its major historical sites.3. Shirahata Gingko, Shinchi TownSometimes called the 'upside down gingko', this massive tree was the subject of an urban myth that Masamune Date, the notorious warlord, planted a riding crop here upside down that later became this tree. The beautiful yellows of the Shirahata Gingko -- which typically reach their pinnacle in early December -- can be seen from quite a distance and contrast beautifully with the striking red torii gate at its base.Best viewing time: Late November to early DecemberFukushima has some of the most impressive gingko trees in all of Japan, with most sites hosting night-time illuminations during autumn colour season. Consider visiting Fukushima City's Azuma Sports Park with its rows of parallel trees, the Great Gingko of Akai in Aizu for its sheer scale, or Shingu Kumano Shrine in Kitakata with its legendary wooden pavilion.4. Kuimaru Elementary School, Showa VillageAlthough no longer a real elementary school day-to-day, this old wooden building was built in 1937 and still stands in Showa Village, these days as a tourism and local community centre. It's most popular in autumn for the massive gingko tree that dominates the front of the building. The interior has a quaint, homely atmosphere thanks to its all-wooden construction and Showa era design, and visitors can take photos sat at the desks, while looking out at the tree through the window.Most years there are night illuminations of the tree, but please be aware the 2025 edition has been cancelled due to repeated bear sightings in the area.Best viewing time: Mid October to Early November5. Hanitsu Shrine, InawashiroIn the heartland of the stunning Inawashiro lake region, Hanitsu Shrine is located a few hundred metres south of the ski fields at Inawashiro Ski Resort. The shrine is famous not only for its gorgeous autumn colours caused by 16 large maple trees, but also for its great white torii gate that greets visitors at the front of the shrine. Patterned artisanal parasols line the stairs here, making it a picturesque location popular for families and couples taking photos.Walking up past the main shrine building takes visitors into the woodlands behind the main grounds, where cobblestone paths lead to the site where Lord Hoshina Masayuki, founder of the powerful Aizu clan of samurai, is buried.During autumn colour season, the shrine can get a little busier, and temporary car parking areas are installed. Please follow the instructions of staff. Illuminations take place from 5pm to 9pm.Best viewing time: Late October - mid NovemberLooking for more information? Check out our: Guide of Top Things to Do in Fukushima Access guide for getting to Fukushima Itineraries page for trip ideas Activities page for tour experiences with English support

    5 Hidden Autumn Colour Spots in Fukushima
  2. Destination Spotlight

    5 Things to Do in Kitakata

    Located just 15 minutes north of the historic city of Aizu-Wakamatsu, Kitakata is a charming area with a rich history, most notable for its traditional quarter and seasonal nature spots.If you’re visiting Kitakata, be it for cherry blossoms, the green season, or autumn colours, this is a great chance to explore one of Japan’s great ‘ramen cities’, with over 100 restaurants serving the famous Kitakata ramen.Here are some ideas for things to do:Wander the old townDuring the Meiji and Taisho eras, Kitakata experienced a construction boom, leaving behind an impressive legacy of around 4,200 kura warehouses still standing today. These buildings were originally used by brewing and lacquerware industries, but they also symbolized wealth and pride for local families. Building a kura was seen as a mark of success and remains deeply tied to Kitakata’s cultural identity.Different districts showcase unique designs. If you’re keen to learn more, the visitor’s centre Kitakata Kura no Sato offers a preserved collection of kura and other traditional architecture within a 4,500-square-metre site. Ten restored buildings include warehouses for miso, grains, shops, and even residences, as well as houses of former local officials.These kura now serve as exhibition spaces, displaying everything from Aizu dye stencils and historic photographs to stories of local figures and movements from the Meiji era. Wandering from warehouse to warehouse is a great way to immerse yourself in traditional Japanese culture.Nicchusen Weeping Cherry BlossomsThe Nicchusen cherry blossoms offer one of Fukushima’s most memorable springtime experiences. The trees line a three-kilometre stretch of the former Nicchu Line railway, which once connected Kitakata with Atsushio Onsen. Today, the old tracks have been transformed into a walking and cycling path that comes alive with thousands of cherry blossoms, creating a tunnel of pink and white each spring. Blooming typically coincides with Golden Week in late April to early May.An old steam locomotive remains on display midway along the path, providing a nostalgic backdrop framed by blossoms. On clear days, you can even make out the silhouette of Mt. Bandai to the east.With different varieties of cherry trees, each section offers unique views and photo opportunities. Despite its popularity, the path is so long that there are still plenty of places to stop and relax, and food stalls are usually abundant during blooming season.Sannokura Plateau Sunflower Fields & Ski ResortIn summer, the ski slopes of Sannokura Plateau are transformed into expansive fields of sunflowers. Around 1.5 million flowers bloom across 5.4 hectares of land, divided into three main areas that flower at slightly different times. This staggered blooming means visitors can enjoy the fields from early August through early September. The view stretches across the Aizu Basin, giving the fields a broad and open backdrop.The site is also known for its canola flowers, which bloom between March and June. The yellow blossoms spread across the same slopes, offering another seasonal landscape before the sunflowers appear. Signs at the entrance provide guidance on the best viewpoints and current blooming conditions, while wooden observation decks on the west and south hillsides give elevated perspectives over the fields.In winter, the area reopens as a ski resort, hosting evening sessions for beginners and intermediate skiers.Shingu Kumano ShrineAt the heart of Shingu Kumano Shrine stands an 800-year-old ginkgo tree, rising 30 metres high with roots over eight metres around. Designated a Natural Monument of Kitakata City, the tree is the site’s most striking feature. Each autumn, its leaves turn a vivid yellow, covering the shrine grounds in a golden carpet. In November, evening illuminations draw visitors from all over Tohoku.Behind the ginkgo is the Nagatoko, or ‘long floor,’ a large thatched-roof worship hall built between the Heian and Kamakura periods. Supported by 44 pillars and open on all sides, it was historically used for ascetic training and kagura dance rituals. The hall has been designated a National Important Cultural Property.The shrine also preserves treasures such as a copper pot once used for offerings, Buddhist statues, and guardian figures, many of which are displayed in the treasure hall.Savour Kitakata ramenKitakata ramen is one of Japan’s ‘big three’ ramen styles, alongside Sapporo and Hakata, and for many people is one of the highlights of visiting the area. Known for its soy sauce-based broth and thick, chewy noodles with a high water content, the style originated at Genraiken in 1927, when Ban Kinsei, a Chinese immigrant, began selling noodles based on his own recipe. He later opened a shop and shared his methods freely, helping spread the dish across the city.Today, Kitakata has the highest number of ramen shops per capita in Japan. Local eateries often open as early as 7 a.m., serving bowls to factory workers, farmers, and travellers. Among the most famous are Genraiken, Makoto Shokudō, and Bannai Shokudō, each offering slightly different variations, from soy sauce-based soups to salty broths topped with generous slices of chashu pork.The long tradition of soy sauce brewing here, and access to clear mountain water, also shapes the flavor of the ramen. Local pride and the work of ramen associations has helped establish Kitakata as a must-visit ramen destination.Kitakata’s ramen shops are as much a cultural experience as a meal, reflecting Kitakata’s history, resources, and community spirit.One of several bars at Aizu HomareTour a sake breweryA trip to Kitakata wouldn’t be complete without a visit to a sake brewery. Two potential options are Yamatogawa and Aizu Homare, both of which have long histories and welcome visitors for tastings and tours.Yamatogawa Brewery, founded in 1790, uses pure mountain water from Mt. Iide and high-quality rice grown on its own fields and by local farmers. The interior features a museum telling visitors about its long history. Next to the brewery, the Northern Museum displays Edo-era earthen storehouses and explains how sake production has evolved. Tours and tastings are free, and the museum is open daily from 9:00 to 16:30.Aizu Homare Brewery, established in 1918, is known for its award-winning sake and also benefits from soft spring water from Mt. Iide. Visitors can take guided tours, watch a video on sake making, and sample over 10 varieties of sake, liqueur, and shochu. The brewery grounds include a large Japanese garden, overlooked by a tatami room where guests can sit, enjoy sake, and take in the seasonal scenery.Looking for more information? Check out our: Access guide for getting to Fukushima Itineraries page for trip ideas Activities page for tour experiences with English support

    5 Things to Do in Kitakata
  3. Useful Information

    8 Things to Do in Nihonmatsu

    Nestled between Fukushima and Koriyama, the sleepy city of Nihonmatsu is surrounded by beautiful nature on all sides. With both cities accessible in short order by shinkansen from Tokyo, Nihonmatsu makes for a great day trip while seeing other sights in this region of Japan.The area is at its most lively during festival season, centring around October and November, but there’s something to visit in Nihonmatsu year-round. Let’s take a look at some of the best spots for a trip to this hidden gem:Climb Mt. AdataraAt 1,700m tall, Mt. Adatara is one of Fukushima’s most famous regions for hikers. It’s also very accessible thanks to a gondola lift, departing from Adatara Kogen Ski Resort at the base, which takes visitors up as far as 1,300m.Regardless of how you make the climb, you’ll be treated to gorgeous views over the surrounding hillsides, especially in autumn when the foliage turns a vibrant gold and orange. This is a great option for hikers of all experience levels, with the trails well-marked and fairly wide throughout the trek.Kasumigajo Castle ParkIn 1868, Nihonmatsu Castle was torn down after forces loyal to the fading shogunate were defeated in the Boshin War. These days only the walls remain, but the castle park is a beautiful spot and listed as a prefectural natural park. In autumn, it’s the site of the charming Nihonmatsu Chrysanthemum Doll Festival, while in spring, the park comes alive as over 1700 cherry trees bloom a beautiful pink.Nihonmatsu Lantern FestivalOne of the best festivals in the prefecture, the lantern festival in Nihonmatsu is held every year at the start of October. Seven giant floats parade through the streets decorated with hundreds of traditional lanterns, each lit by hand by a platoon of talented local townspeople. Each float is then filled with drummers, pulled along by groups of dancers, and cheered on by local students – it’s a powerful atmosphere, and the visuals of the glowing lanterns in the night is hard to beat anywhere in Japan.The festival takes three days; the first day (Saturday) is considered the main day, when all seven floats parade in a single line. On Sunday they tour the city separately, before parading in two groups on the Monday.Visit this page for more information about Fukushima's incredible festival culture.Relax at Dake OnsenMany people choose to experience Japanese culture first-hand during their trip by soaking in a hot spring, or onsen. While it’s not for everyone – clothing is not permitted at most public hot springs – there are options for non-bathers, too. Fukushima has a wealth of onsen towns, served by piping-hot water sourced directly from its many mountains, and Dake Onsen is one of its most charming. But for those not taking a dip, the town still has a pleasant atmosphere perfect for taking a stroll, footbath facilities, and the beautiful road of Sakurazaka (especially beautiful in cherry blossom season!)Take the Extreme Onsen challengeFor those wanting to try an onsen where swimsuits are allowed, this challenge might be right up your alley. A robust hike up an active volcano, with the help of a local guide, and you’ll be soaking in the hot springs of Mt. Adatara directly at the source. The tour is only offered during the summer, since the trail can be dangerous while winter snow remains on the mountain. The Extreme Onsen hike is a truly unique experience, and works great for either groups or as a solo trip.Visit a sake breweryFukushima has a stellar reputation as one of Japan’s best sake-brewing regions. With over seventy breweries in the prefecture, many of which have been making sake for centuries, there’s a reason Fukushima sake constantly wins gold medals at the Annual Sake Awards and has been served at major events worldwide.Seeing the inside of a brewery during your trip to Japan is a must for anyone interested in Japanese cuisine or sake. An option in Nihonmatsu is Himonoya, similarly traditional in that it only brews sake during the winter. Both offer brewery tours, albeit with limited English support, so for guests looking to know more about the sake brewing process, some knowledge of Japanese or an interpreter will be required.Make washi (traditional Japanese paper)Washi paper is a fascinating traditional craft with over a thousand years of history. Handmade from natural fibers, it’s renowned for its strength, beauty, and translucency. Unlike Western paper, washi is produced using meticulous techniques passed down through generations and its versatility spans from everyday items and calligraphy to art conservation and interior design.At the Nihonmatsu Washi Traditional Crafts Gallery, you can learn about the history of the craft, see the kozo (paper mulberry) it’s made from, and make postcards or lampshades to take home as a souvenir. It’s an excellent family activity and well worth a trip.Ebisu Drift CircuitThe famous drift circuit at Ebisu brings hundreds of visitors from overseas every year to experience Japanese drift culture first-hand. The circuit features seven unique courses of varying styles and difficulty levels, and hosts a plethora of racing events throughout the year. Most popular is the Ebisu Drift Matsuri, a drift festival held three times a year, with certain courses only usable for drifting during that weekend.Related informationDay trip itinerary in Nihonmatsu CityOther activities in Fukushima PrefectureGetting to Fukushima

    8 Things to Do in Nihonmatsu
Show All (138)
Top