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Rotenburo Heaven – Private Open-air Baths In Fukushima

Rotenburo Heaven – Private Open-air Baths In Fukushima

In this article, I’m going to introduce you to a number of traditional Japanese inns (ryokan) in onsen towns throughout Fukushima where you can experience the magic of private rotenburo outdoor baths.

WHAT ARE ROTENBURO?

'Rotenburo' translates as ‘open-air bath’.

The word refers to onsen baths that are located fully or partially outside. Depending on the location, bathers might be sheltered from the elements to some extent by roofs and bamboo walls, trees, glass windows etc. Rotenburo are very popular in Japanese onsen towns, especially during the winter months, when guests can enjoy bathing in a hot bath whilst surrounded by snowy mountains.

WHY USE PRIVATE BATHS?

At ryokan hotels in Japan, it is common to bathe together with other guests of the same sex, and in some cases, together with guests regardless of sex. There are, however, many people who prefer to bathe alone, or in the company of friends, family and loved ones. This is one of the main reasons why people use private baths, or ‘kashikiri buro‘.

Another reason is that Japan has a long history of tattoos being associated with gangsters known as yakuza. Of course, the majority of tattoo designs don’t resemble those traditional ones sported by yakuza, but even so, it has remained taboo to enter a public (or shared) bath if you have a tattoo. Although many ryokan turn a blind eye to this rule, it’s still the official policy of many ryokan and hotel in Japan to turn away guests with tattoos from using baths shared with other guests.

In order to avoid any drama, and any potential stares, many tourists from overseas choose to use private baths when they stay at ryokan hotels. Private baths can usually be booked at the front desk of the ryokan hotel, and guests are usually asked to choose a specific time to bathe.

WHICH RYOKAN IN FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE HAVE PRIVATE OPEN-AIR BATHS?

There are around 130 hot springs in Fukushima Prefecture and hundreds of ryokan hotels. In order to make a list of suggestions, I’ve had to cut this number down quite a lot.

I’ve decided to highlight the ryokan hotels in Fukushima Prefecture where guests can book private rotenburo, giving priority to those with English websites or associated websites which make it easy to book even if you don’t speak Japanese. There are so many amazing ryokan in Fukushima Prefecture, and this list is by no means extensive.

Ryokan Hotel Private Rotenburo (Overnight Guests) Private Rotenburo (Day Guests) English Website Price
1) Harataki

 

(Higashiyama Onsen, Aizu)

✔

✔ ✔ 2000 yen (50 min)
2) Takinoyu

 

(Higashiyama Onsen, Aizu)

✔ ✖ ✔ No extra cost for overnight guests
3) Seifutei

 

(Bandaisan Roku Onsen, Inawashiro)

✔ ✖ ✔

(Computer translation)

No extra cost for overnight guests
4) Okawaso

 

(Ashinomaki Onsen, Aizu)

✔ ✖ ✔ 3240 yen (45 min)
5) Yoshikawaya

 

(Iizaka Onsen, Fukushima City)

✔ ✔ ✔ 2160 yen (45 min) + 1000 yen per person for day visit
6) Kikuya Ryokan

 

(Iizaka Onsen, Fukushima City)

✔ ✖ ✔ (Computer translation) 30 min for free
7) New Ougiya

 

(Tsuchiyu Onsen, Fukushima City)

✔ ✖ ✔ No extra cost for overnight guests
8) Sansuiso

 

(Tsuchiyu Onsen, Fukushima City)

✔ ✖ ✔ 1080 yen (60 min)
9) Yumori Onsen Hostel

 

(Tsuchiyu Onsen, Fukushima City)

✔

✖

✔ 

(Responds in English to Facebook  messages)

2000~4000 yen per bath for overnight guests.
10) Furutakiya

 

(Yumoto Onsen, Iwaki)

✔ ✔ ✔

(Computer translation)

1000 yen (45 min) + 800 yen per person

 


AIZU AREA

Aizu is known for its very snowy winters and long history.

1) Harataki

2) Takinoyu

3) Seifutei

  • Every room at this ryokan in Inawashiro Town has its own en-suite open-air private bath so you don’t even have to worry about booking time-slots for going in the bath.
  • Their homepage has an automatic translation function.
  • Seifutei can also be found on Booking.com & other booking sites.

4) Ookawaso

  • Ookawaso ryokan is in Ashinomaki Onsen town (the town is known for it’s cat station master)!
  • Ookawaso has a great selection of food at its dinner buffet, which is really good for those who don’t want to be forced into eating a specific, Japanese-style meal.
  • Overnight guests can book and pay an extra price to use the open-air private baths, but only 4 groups can make a booking each night, due to time and space restrictions.
  • Reservations in English can be made directly via email, or through a booking website.
  • More information on Fukushima.Travel
  • Here is their homepage.

NAKADORI AREA

Ryokan hotel in the central region of Fukushima Prefecture.

5) Yoshikawaya

  • Large ryokan hotel in Iizaka Onsen, near central Fukushima Station.
  • Yoshikawaya Ryokan welcomes guests during the day and evening to use its open-air baths.
  • It costs 2160 yen for each group to book the private bath for 45 minutes, as well as a 1000 yen charge per person.
  • They’re featured on a number of booking sites.
  • More information on Fukushima.Travel
  • English homepage

6) Kikuya Ryokan

  • Ryokan in Iizaka Onsen.
  • Kikuya Ryokan offers guests who stay the night a free 30 minutes in the private open-air bath, as well as the chance to dip in all the other baths.
  • Their website is machine translated but is ok to understand. They are also featured on some booking sites where bookings can be conducted in English.
  • Machine-translated English homepage

7) New Ougiya

8) Sansuiso

9) Yumori Onsen Hostel

  • Recently-opened hostel in Tsuchiyu Onsen with very reasonable prices.
  • Tattoo friendly onsen.
  • They have English-speaking staff who can answer any questions you might have via their Facebook Page (See here).
  • See their homepage here.

IWAKI AREA

Iwaki has much milder winters than the western and central part of Fukushima Prefecture, so visit Iwaki if you want to avoid the snow as much as possible!

 

10) Furutakiya

  • In scenic Iwaki Yumoto Onsen town by the coast.
  • Private open-air baths can be reserved by overnight guests and day-guests.
  • This ryokan has private open-air baths that can be rented for 1000 yen per 45 minutes (plus 800 yen per person for day-guests).
  • Featured on English-language booking websites.
  • Automatic-translation available on their website

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    Ebisu Drift Festival: A Total Guide

    Ebisu Drift Festival, also known as the Ebisu Drift Matsuri, is a two-day extravaganza of drifting that takes place three times a year - spring, summer and autumn - at the world-famous Ebisu Circuit in Nihonmatsu, Fukushima. It's open for anyone to join, either as a driver, passenger or a spectator.In addition to drifting seven courses freely over the course of two days, this is your chance to join a dedicated community, from amateurs to pros, who turn up in huge numbers every year to experience drifting in the heartland of northern Japan.Looking to visit the circuit and experience the festival yourself? Here's everything you need to know:What is the Ebisu Drift Matsuri?Located halfway between charming Nihonmatsu City and the dominating Mt. Adatara to the west, the Ebisu Circuit runs racing events throughout the year. But none is more popular than the Drift Matsuri, typically held in April, August and November.For reference, here are the Ebisu Drift Matsuri dates for 2025: Spring: April 19th & 20th (Sat/Sun) Summer: August 23rd & 24th (Sat/Sun) Autumn: November 15th & 16th (Sat/Sun)The G1GP, a drifting competition held exclusively for overseas visitors, is held on the Friday night preceding the weekend.AccessWhile driving up from Tokyo is possible, it's a long journey - upwards of three and a half hours - that mostly sticks to highways and can be costly for toll roads.Many visitors choose to take the shinkansen (bullet train) as far as Koriyama Station - taking about 75 minutes from Tokyo Station - then rent a car there to drive to the circuit. Popular rental services include: Toyota Times Car Rental ORIX JR Rent-A-CarThese all have stores at Koriyama Station and can be reserved online in English.(Overseas visitors using rental cars must have a valid license to drive in Japan, such as an International Driver's Permit acquired in your home country.)Taking a local train as far as Nihonmatsu Station, then a taxi to the circuit, is also a potential option. Be aware that the circuit is quite spread out, and although it's possible to walk from course to course, the elevation can be extremely steep in places. Using a car is recommended, and especially one with enough power to get up steep slopes.TicketsFor the 2025 spring edition, I arrived shortly after gates opened at 8.00am and there was already a queue forming outside the complex. (Volunteer staff were on hand to direct traffic.) Shortly after I arrived, a second lane was opened, and after that the line moved quickly into the circuit.As a non-driver, I paid 3,000 yen - this was 2,500 yen for a spectator ticket, plus 500 yen to cover insurance for possible ridealongs. Full-face helmets are required for all drivers and passengers and can be rented at the course. I received a green spectator wristband, which the staff ask you to keep on for the duration of the weekend. (Children's tickets are 1,200 yen.)Tickets to enter the festival as a driver are 20,000 yen online in advance (see the Ebisu Drift Circuit website in Japanese for more information) or 25,000 yen at the gate. Drivers receive a red wristband, without which you are unable to enter the track, plus a large seal which must be affixed somewhere visible on the car such as a rear window.How many courses are there?The Ebisu circuit is a massive complex with several excellent tracks. 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Attempt the Extreme Onsen challenge, climbing an active volcano to soak in a real hot spring river Visit Kasumigajo Castle Park, an excellent spot in cherry blossom season (usually blooming around spring festival dates) or in autumn. Mid-October to mid-November there is a famous flower festival where mannequins are layered with chrysanthemums. Sample sake for free at Himonoya brewery Make traditional washi paper at a real craftsman's workshop (great for families!) Take in the ethereal atmosphere at Ryusenji Temple Head to Dake Onsen, a hot spring town known for its tunnel of cherry blossoms and onsen optionsOther Tips and TricksHere are some other pieces of advice I picked up during my trip: Everyone is extremely friendly and happy to chat! Where possible, I tried to ask for permission before taking photos or videos of cars, though this is probably not necessary. Cars for the festival can be rented at the Sideways Experience, a drift school based at North Course. Equally you can buy from Power Vehicles, a trusted dealer and mechanic's based on the road towards Touge and Higashi courses, who will offer support and repairs with any issues. The circuit is famous for its lack of hard rules, but there are a couple: no drinking and driving, and drivers should obey yellow and red flags from the circuit staff. Your wristband is valid for the whole weekend and re-entry is possible. The circuit is connected to a local zoo, so the track restaurant is safari-themed and serves common Japanese fare like curries and noodle dishes. There's a gas station on site, or across the road from the front gate.More information: Getting to Fukushima Top 10 Things to Do in Fukushima Cultural activities in Fukushima

    Ebisu Drift Festival: A Total Guide
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    Top 10 Things to Do in Fukushima Prefecture

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The interior houses a museum teaching visitors about the Aizu clan, with displays in Japanese and English, while the top floor offers wide-ranging views over the surrounding city.The castle grounds are also a busy spot in spring, when dozens of cherry trees bloom at once, and again in autumn, when trees of red and gold are illuminated in the evening.Nearby, the Tsurugajo Kaikan visitors’ center provides outstanding shopping options, including local snacks, gifts and sake, as well as kimono rental services. Visitors can also paint an akabeko here, one of the Aizu region’s most beloved toys, and an unofficial mascot of the area.2. Ouchi-juku, Shimogo TownSamurai travelling between Tsurugajo Castle and the historical capital of Edo (Tokyo) often stopped here at Ouchi-juku to rest and recover. The traditional thatched-roof village, located in Shimogo Town, is popular year-round for its tranquil atmosphere. The rows of houses, meanwhile, have been well-preserved for hundreds of years – many are restaurants serving local specialties, or stalls selling folk art or snacks.Although there is something unique about the village in any season, the area is at its busiest in winter, when the thatched roofs are laden with snow and snow sculpture lanterns light the paths. This is also the time of the Ouchi-juku Snow Festival, a major event in February featuring dancing, community games and a flaming torch parade.3. Goshikinuma Ponds, Kitashiobara VillageFormed in 1888 by the steam explosion of nearby Mt. Bandai, ‘Goshikinuma’ refers to the many volcanic ponds that can be found in Urabandai, an area of astonishing natural beauty. The colours of the water are known to differ even from day to day; a vibrant blue on Monday may have shifted to a brilliant emerald green by Tuesday.Perhaps most-visited is Bishamon-numa (pictured above), a good starting point known for its gorgeous red-leaved foliage in autumn. Visitors can take a gentle hike around the water’s edge, see koi fish, and take a rowboat ride on the water in small groups.4. Lake InawashiroAs Japan’s fourth-largest lake, Inawashiro is so massive it can be seen from space. In summer the great lake is used for water sports like wakeboarding, while in winter it’s common to see flocks of migrating swans at the water’s edge. Since three of Fukushima’s main ski resorts are based nearby – more on that below – a trip here combines well with a ski holiday, or with a visit to the Goshikinuma Ponds in autumn.The lake and its nearby mountain scenery can be seen by a nautical sightseeing tour, with two large boats – one swan and one turtle – leaving from the north dock multiple times a day. There are several campgrounds on all sides of the lake, and even a Finnish-style lakeside sauna that can be rented for those brave enough to dip in the water in winter.5. Ride the Tadami LineOne of Japan’s most scenic train lines, the Tadami Line takes passengers west from Aizu-Wakamatsu City all the way through the stunning Oku-Aizu region, and eventually into Niigata Prefecture.This is perhaps the best way to get to Yanaizu, a historic little town famous for its akabeko character and the majestic Enzoji Temple. 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In almost every case, festivals are a good place to hang out with friends and eat street food, while many have a cultural showcase of some kind or a fireworks display.(From left to right: Iizaka Fighting Festival, Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival, Taimatsu Akashi Torch Festival)If you’re looking to visit one of Fukushima’s biggest festivals, here are perhaps the most famous: Soma Nomaoi (May): horse racing in samurai armour Aizu Festival (September): samurai in full regalia parade through the streets (and you can join!) Iizaka Fighting Festival (October): massive floats crash into one another in an onsen town Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival (October): a parade of beautiful floats covered in lanterns Taimatsu Akashi Torch Festival (November): 20 huge torches are lit ablaze and burn through the nightReaching the top of Mt. Issaikyo rewards climbers with stellar views8. Experience incredible natureSince Fukushima is so massive, it’s easy to find somewhere to get away from the crowds of bigger cities and enjoy your trip at a slower pace in the countryside. Depending on the season, there’s always a spectacular photo spot worth visiting. For example:Cherry blossoms Fukushima’s sheer size means it experiences several cherry blossom seasons, separated by region. It usually starts with Iwaki City in the south-east in early April and ends in the mountainous west of Tadami as late as mid-May.The most popular spots include Hanamiyama, a valley that turns a vibrant pink and yellow, and Miharu Takizakura, a gigantic single cherry blossom tree over 1,000 years old.Check our dedicated cherry blossom guide, or our Google Maps list for more.Autumn coloursWith multiple locales that rank at the top of Tohoku’s best foliage lists, autumn is an excellent time to visit Fukushima. Most leaves are at their best in late October into early or mid November, depending on the region.The Goshikinuma Ponds are possibly the most striking autumn scenery, and some people even plan their whole trip around getting autumn photos here.Elsewhere, several shrines are well-known for their vibrant colours, such as Hanitsu Shrine in Inawashiro with its picturesque vista of red leaves, or the massive yellow gingko tree at Shingu Kumano Shrine in Kitakata.See our Google Maps list for more options.HikingAs a mountainous region, the central plinth of Fukushima offers several excellent hiking options for all levels. Day-trippers looking to stretch their legs will enjoy Mt. Azuma-Kofuji, a 45-minute walk around a crater offering splendid views over Fukushima City on a clear day, while peaks like Mt. Adatara or Mt. Issaikyo provide more of a robust challenge to intermediate climbers.Those looking for a change of pace may be interested in the Extreme Onsen challenge, where a tour guide escorts you up the volcanic back trails of Mt. Adatara to bathe in a real hot spring river. (Changing facilities are provided and a swimsuit is required.)9. SkiingThere are around 20 ski resorts in Fukushima Prefecture, ranging from small regional resorts to huge super-resorts with multiple courses for all levels. The quality of snow and variety of courses is comparable to other major resorts around Japan, but lift pass fees are typically lower and queues for lifts are typically shorter.Three of the biggest resorts are based in the Inawashiro region around Mt. Bandai: Nekoma Mountain, previously two resorts merged into one massive ski complex EN Resorts Grandeco, famous for its hotel where guests can ski directly to the first gondola lift Inawashiro Ski Resort, a large resort which offers free lift passes on weekdays.See our ski guide for more about these resorts.10. CuisineJapan’s fantastic food culture is one of the best reasons to visit Japan, and Fukushima is no different. You’ll find something delicious no matter where you visit in the prefecture.Regional specialties include: Ramen, especially ‘ramen heartland’ Kitakata City with its over 100 restaurants Sauce katsudon, breaded pork and sauce over rice in the Aizu region Enban gyoza, dumplings served direct from a circular pan to provide extra crispinessThe Fukushima Fruit Line, in the northwest of Fukushima City, is a row of over 20 orchards, many of which offer all-you-can-eat fruit picking experiences year-round. Long picking seasons ensure there is always something to pick whenever you visit – although peaches are most popular in July and August.Fukushima’s sake reputation is also stellar, with its products routinely receiving gold standard certifications at Japan’s major sake awards. There are several places to take a tour of a brewery and sample the local products, such as Yamatogawa, Homare or Suehiro.Looking for more information? Check out our: Access guide for getting to Fukushima Itineraries page for trip ideas Activities page for tour experiences with English support

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    Michi-no-eki: 6 Roadside Stations to Visit in Fukushima Prefecture

    The Japanese roadside station or ‘michi-no-eki’ is something of an institution among Japan road-trippers, thanks to their ubiquitous nature, local charms and great food. There’s nothing like seeing a michi-no-eki appear during a long trip when you need one most, and they’re helpfully dotted all over Japan’s expansive road network.Compared to roadside services in other countries, some consider Japanese michi-no-eki as destinations worth travelling to for their attractions alone, not only as a rest stop on a longer journey. You’ll often see them full with not only travellers, but local people looking for fresh goods made by the region’s craftspeople.Though michi-no-eki vary in shape, size and services available, all have restrooms, plus some kind of restaurant or canteen, shopping options, and information about the surrounding area. In most places you can also expect an ATM, free internet, vending machines and options for charging portable devices.Since arriving in Fukushima, I’ve had the chance to visit about half of all michi-no-eki across the prefecture, and I’m here to bring you my top suggestions so far (with a few recommendations for fun places to visit nearby).Road Station Yotsukura Harbor, Iwaki CityNearby tourist spots: the floating shrine at Bentenjima, Aquamarine Fukushima aquariumBased in Iwaki in the south-east of the prefecture, this seaside road station is a perfect stop for travellers exploring the east coast. It has a beautiful wood-panelled canteen with a great selection of local cuisines, part of which looks out over the palm trees on the green out front, and there’s even outdoor seating on the deck.Yotsukura also offers a rare tomato-flavoured ice cream, in addition to a more traditional vanilla and a mixture of the two, which is perfect for a summer day. The seafront is roughly a hundred yards from the ice cream shop.Roadside Station Madeikan, Iitate VillageNearby tourist spots: Yamatsumi shrine, or heading east to Minamisoma for Soma NomaoiNestled in the woodland region between Fukushima City and the east coast, Iitate is a quaint village known for its greenery and abundance of smaller shrines. In summer it’s popular for visitors seeing its great sunflower patches, while this roadside station holds night-time illuminations in winter.In addition to a food court and a large shop selling local produce, there’s also a great souvenir shop selling arts and crafts. There’s even a few crane games!Aizu Yanaizu Roadside Station / HOTNearby tourist spots: Enzoji Temple, Chansey’s Lucky Park, January 7th Naked Shrine VisitYanaizu is a multi-faceted town despite its smaller size – the beautiful architecture at Enzoji Temple is the locale for the yearly ‘naked shrine visit’ on 7 January, as well as being the birthplace of the ‘akabeko’ red cow legend.The roadside station here features one of Fukushima’s four Chansey Parks, hailing the prefecture’s support Pokemon, with a public footpath nearby for anyone to use. The interior has an excellent canteen – the sauce katsudon, with deep-fried pork on rice, is amazing – and you can paint an akabeko in its ‘experience area’.Unsurprisingly, given the area's history, the shop is full of akabeko merchandise, and there’s even a few of the bigger cows hanging out nearby.Ozekaido Mishima Juku Roadside StationNearby tourist spots: Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint, Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba (train viewpoint)Located just down the road from Yanaizu, this is a great option if you’re looking to combine some of the region’s best sights. The roadside station in Mishima doubles as the parking area for the Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint, where the Tadami Line train crosses one of Japan’s most scenic bridges.The interior is also quite charming, featuring local products (including wicker crafts, a staple of the area) and a canteen serving hot food.Michi-no-eki Inawashiro Roadside StationNearby tourist spots: Fukushima’s big three ski resorts, Lake Inawashiro, Goshikinuma PondsA natural stopping point in any season, Inawashiro’s roadside station gets busy on the weekends for its prime location between some of Fukushima’s most popular natural spots. Lake Inawashiro, to the south, is one of Japan’s largest lakes, and can be traversed by sightseeing boat, while the Goshikinuma Ponds to the north are particularly gorgeous in autumn.The canteen here is some of the best food I've ever had while travelling across Japan:Inawashiro is also a good place to take a break if you’re heading to one of the big ski resorts nearby, among them Inawashiro (free on weekdays!), Grandeco or Nekoma Mountain.Roadside Station FukushimaNearby tourist spots: Mt. Azuma-Kofuji, Fukushima Fruit Line, Bandai-Azuma Skyline sightseeing roadPossibly the easiest michi-no-eki to visit from Fukushima City, this roadside station feels spacious and airy thanks to its beautiful wooden design.In addition to local rice, fruits and vegetables, there is a bakery area, plus a food court with a variety of options including ramen and curry. The nearby sweets shop serves ice cream in a bunny design, in homage to the giant ‘snow rabbit’ that forms as snow melts on Mt. Azuma-Kofuji every year.In fact, the whole michi-no-eki is themed after the rabbit, which also inspired one of Fukushima City’s mascots, Momorin. (seen here outside Fukushima Station!)Every michi-no-eki in one placeLooking for more options? We put almost every michi-no-eki into this Google Maps list:

    Michi-no-eki: 6 Roadside Stations to Visit in Fukushima Prefecture
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