Blog

Featured Posts

TYPE
SEASON
AREA

Latest Posts

71 results

Destination Spotlight

Visiting Aquamarine Fukushima

Aquamarine Fukushima is a fun, thought-provoking aquarium and research center in Iwaki. Aquamarine Fukushima educates visitors about the marine animals and ecosystems found in oceans, rivers, streams, seashores, and even rice paddies, through a wide range of displays. From ‘living fossils’ – ocean creatures whose genes have hardly changed since ancient times – to recently discovered species, this aquarium takes visitors on a journey from the Jomon period (c. 14,000 – 300 BCE) to the present day. SO, WHAT MAKES IT INTERESTING? 1. COELACANTH Since opening, Aquamarine Fukushima has been conducting research about the ancient Coelacanth, which has inhabited our oceans for approximately 400 million years. The two species of Coelacanth that still exist can be found near the Comoro Islands off of Africa’s east coast, and off the coasts of Indonesia. The aquarium includes a moving robotic Coelacanth, a large exhibition of Coelacanth fossils found around the world, and even a specimen from the Comoro Islands. 2. THE WEIRD TO THE VERY ORDINARY Aquamarine Fukushima includes all kinds of wonderful creatures, such as carnivorous plants, sea pineapples, fennec foxes, among many others. Various ecosystems and their inhabitants are exhibited at Aquamarine. I was particularly drawn to these cute little spotted garden eels, which live at the sandy bottoms of coral reefs. Aquamarine Fukushima also has an exhibit of 8 species of goldfish. Visitors might think that goldfish aren’t worth seeing at an aquarium. Aquamarine Fukushima challenges this by demonstrating their variety and beauty. Displayed in magnificent tanks, these goldfish are referred to as ‘living works of art’. There is one more thing that makes these goldfish very special. On 3.11, aquarium’s pumps, air conditioning and water temperature control units lost power. Tragically, 90% of the animals were lost (200,000 species over 750 species). The aquarium reopened in July 2011. The goldfish were one of a handful of species to survive the disaster. 3. A NEW APPROACH TO AQUARIUMS Aquariums can be dark, gloomy, and can feel enclosed. But Aquamarine Fukushima has been designed so that all natural light is used to the utmost efficiency. Aquamarine also utilises all green spaces around the aquarium. There are a number of exciting outside exhibits, including the Jomon village, rice paddies, fishing areas, and beach area (home to the world’s largest touch pool (4500 sq.m). THINGS TO DO 1. GET TO KNOW THE LOCALS Say hello to the different animals and give them a stroke if you get a chance at a touch pool. 2. FISH, COOK & EAT EXPERIENCE Set up initially to teach children about where their food comes from, this experience is held daily between 10:00 – 15:00. You can catch Silver Salmon and Horse Mackerel, prepare them for cooking yourself, and have them deep-fried as tempura by members of staff! Be mindful that you have to take home every fish that you catch! See here for more information. 3. BACKYARD TOUR Volunteer-led Backyard Tours offer visitors a chance to see the work that goes into maintaining an aquarium – machinery, food preparation techniques, animals currently not on exhibit etc.! These tours last around 30 minutes and can be reserved at the Information Corner on the 2nd floor (Japanese only). If you want to learn more about the aquarium and its aims, there are exhibits that showcase Aquamarine’s current research, information about conservation projects, and the fishing industry’s effect on the ocean. 4. CHECK OUT THE VIEW The observation deck on the top floor of the aquarium offers a great view. They even have an English website, so go have a look and start planning your visit! INFORMATION FOR VISITING See here for opening hours, entry fee, and access information.

Visiting Aquamarine Fukushima
Destination Spotlight

Sukagawa City: Fireworks, Tatami, Fire Festivals & Sci-fi Heroes

It struck me recently that when people think about travelling in Fukushima Prefecture, Sukagawa doesn’t tend to be the first place that comes to mind. But the city has some really interesting places to visit and incredible festivals to experience. What’s more, it’s really easy to access by public transport. It’s just a 15 minute train ride on the Tohoku Line from Koriyama Station – which can be reached directly from Tokyo by Shinkansen. 1. SUKAGAWA CITY SHAKADOGAWA RIVER FIREWORKS DISPLAY 10,000 fireworks are set off at Shakadogawa River over the course of the 90-minute fireworks display. This firework festival is easy to get to with public transport and makes for a really fun evening! When? Late August. Where? Sukagawa City. You can get a good view just a 10 minute walk from Sukagawa Station How much? Free! More details: See here 2. SUKAGAWA BOTAN-EN PEONY GARDEN Sukagawa Botan-en Peony Garden is Japan’s only peony garden. The garden is free to visit for most of the year, except for the busy season when the peonies are in bloom (April & May)! The garden spans 10 hectares and is home to well over 200 types of peony. Visit the garden in late June to see the beautiful rose garden in bloom, or in Autumn for more great views. Information about opening hours etc.: See here Location: See a map here 3. TAIMATSU AKASHI FESTIVAL This incredible festival, which has taken place for over 400 years, is held on the 2nd Saturday of November every year. During the festival, twenty-two 10-metre long torches – which are crafted carefully by local people in the months running up to the festival – are carried through the city and eventually are placed on the summit of Mt. Gorozan. Once in place, a local will climb to the top of the torch and set it on fire. This festival is very important to the people of Sukagawa, because the light of the torches are considered to be offerings to the gods. These offerings are made in order to appease the gods in the hopes that the souls of samurai and local people who died in a local war over 400 years ago can rest in peace. When? 2nd Saturday of November Where? Central Sukagawa City / Mt. Gorozan More Information: See here 4. ULTRAMAN Ultraman may not be famous abroad, but in Japan, he is a famous superhero whose legacy stretches back generations. Ultraman was a superhero character created for a sci-fi television series by Sukagawa local Eiji Tsuburaya. The first episode featuring Ultraman was aired in 1966, and his fame and fan-following has skyrocketed ever since. The character has been brought back in a number of reincarnations over the decades. You can find Ultraman statues and other memorabilia scattered around the city. The city hall (where the photos above were taken) even includes a shop selling Ultraman collectibles (I’m actually wearing one of their rather fetching Ultraman aprons). There is also an Ultraman memorabilia shop in the centre of town which is run by relatives of Eiji Tsuburaya. I haven’t actually been there yet but I’m excited to go at some point soon. Here is it’s location on a map. 5. KUBOKI TATAMI SHOP Get creative at a shop that has adapted to the times and reinvented ways to use traditional Japanese tatami flooring in everyday life. You can make your own mini-tatami mats with the lovely Kuboki family as teachers. They offer a number of craft experiences and also sell some really nice items made in-store. How much? 1000 yen for mini-tatami making experience. Where? 15 minute walk from Sukagawa Station. See here for location! 6. LUNCH AT KAMOME-SHA CAFE This is one of the only places I’ve found in Fukushima Prefecture where you can get a good English muffin! This may not be something you associate with travelling in Japan, but after a week or so of sushi and ramen, a bacon-filled English muffin really hits the spot. There is also a vintage shop inside the cafe. Can’t get much more hipster than this. Check the cafes opening hours etc. on Google Maps: See here ALL PLACES MENTIONED ON THIS BLOG ARE FEATURED ON THE MAP BELOW:

Sukagawa City: Fireworks, Tatami, Fire Festivals & Sci-fi Heroes
Destination Spotlight

Making Awamanju in Yanaizu

I got to try my hand at making awamanju (a local delicacy from Yanaizu Town, Aizu) and really enjoyed the experience! This activity is suitable for people of all ages, and staff can even instruct you in English! But first things first… WHAT IS A MANJU? Manju are a type of traditional Japanese confectionery that come under the broad title of 'wagashi'. There are many different types of manju (as shown above), but the standard ingredients shared across most varieties are flour, rice powder, buckwheat and some sort of bean paste filling. Like a lot of Japanese sweets, manju aren’t super sweet like chocolate, but have a delicate sweetness to them that matches really well with green tea. Simply put, they are sweet rice buns, which are either baked or steamed. Manju varieties originating from Fukushima Prefecture – including awamanju – tend to be steamed. I love the texture of the bun when you bite into it, and absolutely adore being able to eat freshly steamed ones – eating them when they’re warm is the best. CHARACTERISTICS OF AWAMANJU While many manju have a smooth texture to their buns, awamanju are made from millet, and have an uneven, slightly grainy texture. Their bright yellow colour is one of the easiest way to identify these buns! Due to the inclusion of millet in the bun mix, awamanju also tend to not have such a solid outside layer, but one that has a bit more moisture and elasticity to it. AWAMANJU AND YANAIZU Awamanju have been produced in Yanaizu Town since the late Edo Period (mid 19th century). One of the oldest awamanju speciality shops is Koike Confectionery Shop (pictured below). Like many traditional Japanese sweets and ornaments, the reason behind awamanju being produced in Yanaizu has a story to go with it. During the mid 19th century, Yanaizu Town, and specifically Enzoji Temple which sits at its center, fell victim to a number disasters, including damage from fire and flooding. The buns were originally made as a lucky item which could ward off future disasters. The word 'awa' (あわ） not only refers to the millet that is the main ingredient of the bun, but also to the wish “二度とこのような火災に「あわ」ないよう / Nido to kono youna kasai ni “awa” nai youni", which means “I pray that no more fires ravage our town”. It’s basically a pun which is hard to translate! Koike Confectionery Store, like other awamanju shops, have their shop located on the main street of Yanaizu Town. But they also have a small branch inside the nearby sightseeing facility 'Hot in Yanaizu'. It’s Hot in Yanaizu which provides awamanju making experiences, and these experiences are even taught by a member of the Koike family! MAKE YOUR OWN MANJU EXPERIENCE Location: Hot in Yanaizu is a short walk from Yanaizu Station (on the Tadami Line) Length of Activity: 30 min to 1 hour (including time spent steaming the buns!) Price: 1,200 yen per person Price Includes: 5 buns to taken home, 2 small souvenirs, and 1 drink Bookings: Please book in advance by email or phone (Mention if you need English or Chinese guiding when you make a booking). I recommend booking through emailing Oku-Aizu Tourism Association First I washed my hands and got ready to scoop up the mix which will make the bun. Next, Koike san gave me a rounded cup to place the bun mix into. I lightly filled the cup with the mix, making sure not to knock too much air out of it. After filling the cup, I used my finger to make a hole where the red bean paste would go. Again, it’s important not to press to hard when doing this, to avoid squeezing too much air out. Hot in Yanaizu prepared the red bean paste, so I didn’t have to worry about whether it was the right size! After I placed it in the hole, I tapped it gently to push it further into the mix. Next, I scooped up more of the mix and pressed it down very gently over the top of the red bean paste, to create a top layer. This was the hardest bit, as it was difficult to judge how thick a layer I had been able to fit around the red best paste. When I was happy with the bun, I placed my hand over the open end of the cup, tipped it upside down and placed the bun onto a wooden tray. They looked pretty good so far! I’m not going to lie, the photo above was what Koike san did as a demonstration… If you look closely, you might be able to see my buns on the left… I didn’t quite manage to get the amount of mix for the top layer quite right, so some of the red bean paste was visible through the outer-layer. After putting them in the steamer to cook them for 20 minutes or so, the buns were all ready! I then wrapped them (individually) in plastic – as is the tradition with small sweets in Japan – and places them in one of Koike Confectionery Shop’s own boxes. I’m very pleased to say that my manju tasted delicious! OTHER THINGS TO DO AT HOT IN YANAIZU Another activity you can try at Hot in Yanaizu is painting an akabeko lucky red cow! There are a number of places that offer this experience throughout Aizu area, but it’s quite a cool thing to do while your manju are steaming! There is also a small restaurant inside the facility, and shop selling local products which would make perfect gifts! As long as you get there pretty early, you might even be able to buy some freshly made manju produced by the experts! (They sell out fast). Make sure to check out the original Koike manju shop, and the fascinating Enzoji Temple, which is a beautiful, spiritual building with a range of of interesting areas to explore in the grounds.

Making Awamanju in Yanaizu
Destination Spotlight

Following Fukushima’s Footpath: Miyakoji Area in Tamura City

Miyakoji (都路) is a peaceful village located in the Eastern part of Tamura City (田村市), in the central area of Fukushima prefecture. It is said that walking in nature helps you feel more relaxed, and walking around Miyakoji in early January definitely had that effect.The charms of Tamura CityOzawa Sakura in Tamura City. Photo credit: Tamura City, 田村市Once the snow melts, what is known as the ‘green season’ begins. That is when the cherry blossom trees and flower fields in Tamura City see most of their yearly visitors. Lavander in Takine area, Tamura City「Photo credit: Tamura City, 田村市」Tamura City is also home to the Abukuma Cave, said to have the greatest variety and the largest number of stalactites in the whole of Asia.The Miyakoji area in Tamura is lush with vegetation. In the past, the silkworm industry flourished in Miyakoji. As a remnant of this, mulberry trees remain.Mt. Gojyunin-yama, Miyakoji area. Photo credit: Tamura City, 田村市In Miyakoji, particularly, there’s a famous tall weeping tree called “akimoto no shidare-zakura”.Cherry blossom trees can also be found along the main street, and, in spring, visitors can enjoy both the green mulberry trees and pink cherry blossom trees.Miyakoji’s EvacuationLocated about 40 km away from the TEPCO Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Station, Miyakoji became the only area in the city of Tamura that had to be evacuated following the nuclear disaster in 2011.The evacuation order was lifted on April 1, 2014. Among the towns in Fukushima that had to be evacuated, Miyakoji is one of the few where most of the original residents have returned. Over ten years after the 2011 disaster, today Miyakoji has over two thousand residents, a convenience store, a hotel, and a few restaurants. A Picturesque Red-Roofed TownThe first thing that caught my eye about Miyakoji are its red-tiled Japanese-style houses. Is it a coincidence, I wondered, that there are so many buildings with glossy dark red-tiled roofs in Fukushima, something I had rarely seen in other areas of Japan? (By the way, Tsurugajo Castle in the Aizu area is the only red-tiled roofed castle in Japan.)Although I haven’t found a conclusive answer to the mystery of the red-tiled roofs in Fukushima, the widespread theory I found online is that the red color is due to a glaze applied on the tiles to prevent them from freezing and cracking when snow piles up during winter.Little Beautiful Sights in MiyakojiA Buddhist temple, statues and a large bell. The bell is a replica, as the original one was apparently lost during World War II.Jizo, affectionately called ‘ojizo-san’ in Japanese, are stone Buddha statues dressed in red bibs and caps. These statues are believed to be guardians of children and travelers, and can often be found even in remote rural locations.An unattended vegetable stand is one of the sights truly unique to rural Japan. You can buy local vegetables and pay the fee by leaving the money in the designated area.Miyakoji is rural and tranquil. The air is pure and the river flows bright blue.The Mysteriously Beautiful Okame ShrineJapan has countless shrines; some of them see crowds of visitors from all over the country and overseas, while others are visited mainly by locals. Okame shrine (大亀神社), despite its incredibly photogenic and mysterious appeal, falls in the latter category; it is a place of worship that remains quiet and undisturbed.The shrine is located on a hill in the heart of a forest of Japanese cypress trees called Thujopsis. Both the shrine and the trees are believed to be over 400 years old. To reach the shrine, you have to climb up the stairs and venture into the fragrant forest. You’ll notice birds chirping and beams of light coming through the tall tree trunks. The roof of Okame shrine is red but it looks beautiful covered in snow.This shrine is said to worship Princess Tamayori, the daughter of a sea goddess. Why is a sea goddess enshrined in the middle of a forest, considerably far from the ocean, you may ask?That is one of the many mysteries of this shrine.Fostering Community Bonds: Yoriai-dokoro Hana Community Center & CafeYoriai-dokoro Hana (よりあい処 華) was opened in June 2014 after the evacuation order for Miyakoji was lifted. At the time, there were no other restaurants in Miyakoji, so this cafe and community center quickly became a place for returning residents to gather and a pillar of support for the community.Yoriai-dokoro Hana is located at a traditional Japanese house, and it serves warm meals using local ingredients. This seems like a great place to bond with the locals. When I visited, there was an exhibition of handicrafts made by townspeople. Yoriai-dokoro Hana is open from 11:00 to 14:00 only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.Photo credit: Tamura City, 田村市Curious about visiting Miyakoji? Would you like to see more beautiful sights in this area?Traveling to Miyakoji by carIt takes approximately an hour to reach Miyakoji from Koriyama station (see route).Traveling to Miyakoji by public transportationFrom Koriyama Station, take the JR Ban-etsu East Line train bound for Iwaki, and get off at Funehiki Station (approx. 25 minutes). From the bus stop in front of Funehiki Station (船引駅前) take a “Furumichi” (古道) bus and get off at Miyakoji Administrative Bureau (都路行政局) (approx. 52 minutes). There are only a few buses a day, so be sure to check the bus schedule before your visit.<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d50697.2045773572!2d140.7509628626667!3d37.42351238629868!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x6020f3c6946beca7%3A0xa477d29a6d2f3782!2sMiyakojimachi%20Furumichi%2C%20Tamura%2C%20Fukushima%20963-4701%2C%20Japan!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sus!4v1692338315197!5m2!1sen!2sus" width="600" height="450" style="border:0;" allowfullscreen="" loading="lazy" referrerpolicy="no-referrer-when-downgrade"></iframe>

Following Fukushima’s Footpath: Miyakoji Area in Tamura City
Destination Spotlight

5 Things to Do in Showa Village

‘Showa’ in Japanese marks a historical period that spanned from 1926 to 1989. Nowadays, the term is sometimes used to describe something retro, vintage, or nostalgic. Coincidentally, there is a village called Showa in Oku-Aizu, a tranquil mountainous region in Western Fukushima Prefecture, and the name seems fitting. Driving through Showa’s winding roads and quaint traditional houses and businesses feels both nostalgic and insightful. With a population of just over a thousand people and no train lines, in this quiet village, you can experience the charm and quietness of Japanese countryside life.If you are planning a trip to the widely overlooked Oku-Aizu area and are considering spending the day in Showa, here are some of the attractions we recommend visiting:1. Visit the Historical Kuimaru Elementary SchoolKuimaru Elementary School was open from 1937 until it closed in 1980 after being replaced by a newer school building. Although no longer operating as a school, Kuimaru was preserved, along with its old desks and vintage books. Walking through the hallways, it feels as if the bell might ring and students will come into class at any moment!What is more, in front of the school stands a towering ginkgo tree that is an attraction in itself, particularly during the autumn when its leaves turn golden. There is also a cafe, 蕎麦カフェ SCHOLA, famous for its galettes made of 100% buckwheat flour. You can read more about the Kuimaru Elementary School here.2. Have Fun at Chansey’s Lucky ParkDid you know that Chansey is Fukushima Prefecture’s support Pokémon? One of the four Chansey’s lucky Parks in the prefecture can be found at the Michi-no-Eki Karamushi Ori-no-Sato (Roadside Station) in Showa Village. While the park is a little smaller than other Chansey’s Lucky Parks, it has several photogenic Pokémon-themed attractions. While you are there, we recommend looking for the unique Showa village-themed Poké Lid (utility hole) featuring Chansey!3. Try Ramie Weaving at the Michi-no-Eki Karamushi Ori-no-Sato (Roadside Station)Ranging from delicately woven shirts to sturdy mats, a wide range of items made of ramie fiber have been produced in Showa Village for around 600 years. The village prides itself in its long tradition of craftsmanship, and it is one of the few places where ramie (karamushi in Japanese) is still commercially cultivated in Japan. Apart from learning about ramie production and seeing the ramie varieties at the garden next to the roadside station, you can also weave a ramie souvenir! At the Michi-no-Eki Karamushi Ori-no-Sato (roadside station), you can make a ramie coaster to take home.On site, you will also find a restaurant offering the area’s staple lunches, like buckwheat noodles, ramen, and tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets). There is also a souvenir shop.4. Climb to a Viewpoint to See the Entire VillagePerhaps the most photogenic view of the village can be found at a viewpoint located at the Okuaizu Showa no Mori Campsite. From there, you can see just how picturesque its traditional houses look surrounded by the lush mountains. The viewpoint can be accessed after hiking up a hill from the parking lot of the campsite. If you visit during the early morning, particularly in the autumn, you might be lucky enough to see a barrage of clouds rapidly passing through the mountains, a phenomenon known as unkai, or sea of clouds.5. Relax in the Area’s Natural ReservesShowa is not densely populated, and its vast forests are lush with vegetation. A recommended spot, particularly during autumn, is the Yanohara Marsh, where the vivid colors of the leaves reflect on the marsh creating a picturesque scene. Another popular spot is the Takashimizu Nature Park in nearby Minamiaizu Town. There, you will encounter a million Himesayuri flowers, highly treasured by the locals, which bloom between mid-June to early July. Please note, however, that there are wild animals in many of the green spaces of Showa and its surroundings, so take due precautions and hike safely!Visiting Showa VillageThe best way to get to Showa is by car, as there are no trains that travel to or within Showa, and buses that connect it with nearby towns are scarce. By car, Showa is about 1 hour and 10 minutes from Aizu-Wakamatsu City, or about 45 minutes from Ouchi-juku.Related LinksChansey’s Lucky Parks and Poké Lids: Must-See Pokémon Attractions in Fukushima5 Reasons to Visit Mishima Town2 Day Road Trip to Oku-Aizu

5 Things to Do in Showa Village
Destination Spotlight

Spending A Winter Day In Tsuchiyu Onsen

Tsuchiyu Onsen has been a well-loved kokeshi-producing onsen town for over 170 years. Kokeshi are painted wooden dolls, which have been produced in Japan since the late 18th century in onsen towns in Tohoku (the eastern region of Japan).Kokeshi were originally made and sold in onsen towns as souvenirs for visiting guests to take home to their friends and families. Throughout the 6 prefectures that make up Tohoku, there are 11 distinctive styles of kokeshi. This being said, the Tsuchiyu Kokeshi is ranked among the ‘top 3’ of the Tohoku Kokeshi.

Spending A Winter Day In Tsuchiyu Onsen
Destination Spotlight

Yunokami Onsen In Spring

I visited Yunokami Onsen during the cherry blossom season! We visited the station in late April – which just so happened to be perfect timing! We were greeted with blue skies and sakura in full bloom. YUNOKAMI ONSEN STATION Yunokami Onsen Station is a very picturesque local station on the Aizu Railway Line that connects Aizu-Wakamatsu City with Aizu-Tajima, and further on to Asakusa Station in Tokyo. This beautiful thatched-roof station must be one of my favourite stations in the prefecture – it’s got a public foot bath just outside so you can treat your feet to natural hot spring water before catching your train, there’s a traditional Japanese stove to warm yourself up with in winter, there’s a range of souvenirs on sale, and it’s extremely photogenic – what’s not to love?! There are many cherry blossom trees surrounding the station, which had caught the attention of quite a few tourists, who were busy snapping photos with the blossoms. If you look directly at the front of the station, turn right and walk down the hill, you’ll reach the bus stop for Ouchi-juku. It’s the dark green bus in the photos below. We took photos outside of the station while we waited for the prime time to take a photo of the moment when the local train passes in front of Yunokami Onsen Station. (You can check when the train will pass in front of the station by checking the timetable listed inside the station.) In order to take the best photo, you have to pass through the barriers in the station. It’s necessary to buy a ticket that will let you access the train platform. Once we passed through the barriers, we walked onto the platform, then crossed over onto the other side of the tracks, where there were a number of reporters and photographers waiting. Taking a photo of the train passing in front of the station was harder than I was expecting! After I got home, I looked back at the first photo and realised that the angle I had taken my photos from wasn’t quite right for including as much sakura in one shot as possible. It’s good to know this for next time! At the tourist information desk at Yunokami Onsen Station, the staff let me know that the cherry blossom at Nakayama Fuketsu were also in full bloom, so we decided to go check it out. This viewpoint is 2.5 km away from the station and much of this is up a steep hill with no footpath, so you may be difficult to reach if you aren’t travelling by car. We were travelling by car so it wasn’t a problem for us. NAKAYAMA FUKETSU VIEWPOINT I had never been to this view point before. It was a bit of an adventure getting to the viewpoint, because it involved driving up quite a narrow mountain road. But it was worth it for the beautiful views, especially ones of the snow-topped mountains behind pale pink cherry blossom. LUNCH AT MOTHER LIP After we had explored the cherry blossom spots, we went to Mother Lip Café for lunch. I’ve wanted to go to this café for ages! Mostly because of its intriguing name. The coffee was delicious and the spaghetti was really nice. I chose “Napolitan”, which is actually a Japanese spaghetti recipe originating from Yokohama. We had to head back to work after our trip to Minamiaizu, but there is plenty to do near Yunokami Onsen – both the To-no-Hetsuri rock formations and the Edo post-town of Ouchi-juku are very close. I really recommend you visit this area in late April when you get the chance. It’s really beautiful and makes for a very pleasant drive. I’ve included Ouchi-juku, To-no-Hetsuri, as well as the places mentioned in this post, in the Google Map below.

Yunokami Onsen In Spring
Destination Spotlight

The Hula Girls Of Iwaki Yumoto Onsen

A city on the eastern coast of Fukushima is probably the last place you would expect to find a Polynesian Hula Girl Show. Since the 1960s, Spa Resort Hawaiians (a resort complex, home to countless spas, swimming pools, hotels and the world’s largest open-air bath) has been a venue for daily Polynesian dance performances. I was quite confused by the concept of Spa Resort Hawaiians… I couldn’t comprehend why you might want to go to somewhere themed as a Hawaiian resort if you were coming to Japan… but after learning a little about the history of the resort, I realised it is a pretty interesting place after all. Iwaki used to be a thriving mining city, with the majority of local workers involved in the industry, but a shift in demand from coal to oil during the 1960s left the future of the local community thrown into uncertainty. To tackle this issue, Joban Mining Co. (a local company) decided to open the Hawaii-themed resort, in order to provide jobs for locals, and allow many those who couldn’t afford to travel abroad a chance to experience a vacation in another country! Spa Resort Hawaiians, and its Hula Girls, soon became famous across Japan. The story was even turned into a film in 2006! Grand Polynesian Shows and Knife Fire Dance Shows are held every day, with seats available to both guests and day-time visitors. The performances are 1 hour long, and are fun and engaging. I particularly enjoyed the topless, oily men juggling fire… I couldn’t help but break into a smile whilst watching the girls’ dancing. I even briefly daydreamed about learning how to hula dance, and joining them onstage. I soon snapped out of my daydream when the girls called for participants to join them! I wasn’t brave enough this time, but maybe next time… In the evening, I stayed at Koito Ryokan, and was lucky enough to meet three members of the Hula Okami group (Okami translates as ‘hotel proprietress’). This group of ladies who own or manage ryokan (Japanese inns), have found inspiration from the story of Iwaki’s Hula Girls. In turn, they have decided to start their own group, and to begin performing a traditional local dance across the country in order to revive their local area, in the same way as Spa Resort Hawaiians did when it originally opened in 1966. Instead of creating jobs at a hotel, they are establishing and spreading interest in the fun, lively community of Iwaki Yumoto Onsen town. They’re dancing in the hope of increasing tourism to the area they love, and to show the world that, despite the damage of the 2011 tsunami, the town is alive and moving forward. I was really moved by the passion of the Hula Okami, and their determination to do anything possible to revive tourism Iwaki’s tourism. The Hula Okami usually perform once a month outside of Yumoto Onsen Station, and have also danced in other venues across Japan. I hope I’ll get the chance to watch them perform next month! You can read more about Spa Resort Hawaiians here.

The Hula Girls Of Iwaki Yumoto Onsen
Destination Spotlight

Hanamiyama in Full Bloom

During the spring, Hanamiyama, and the surrounding scenery, explodes with colour and beauty. I have always associated the Japanese custom of hanami (flower viewing) with light pink cherry blossom. But at Hanamiyama, there is just so much colour! During my visit to Hanamiyama I saw Yoshino cherry blossom (someiyoshino), double cherry blossom (yaenozakura), peach blossom (momo), flowering peach blossom (hanamomo), white magnolia (hakumokuren), Japanese quince (boke), Japanese allspice (roubai), among many others. I visited Hanamiyama by bus from Fukushima Station. During peak cherry-blossom viewing time, there are frequent temporary buses that go between Fukushima Station and the park. The bus stop was easily signposted and there were main guides helping people figure out where to line up. On arriving at Hanamiyama, I was surprised at how different the scenery was to my previous visits in September and February – it was unrecognisable! No matter where you looked, beautiful bright pink and yellow flowers blanketed the fields and hillsides. From the bus stop, the walk to the actual park entrance was around a 10-minute walk, but all along the way the scenery was so amazing, the time flew by. After entering the park, I came to realise that, despite the beauty of the surrounding fields and hills, the flowers and foliage within the grounds of Hanamiyama are on a whole other level. There were so many different types of flowers, and the curving shapes of the path up the hill that stands at the centre of Hanamiyama meant that it was exciting to try and guess what kind of flower you might meet at the next turn or bend. The 1-hour course took us a little longer because we took a lot of photographs on the way up, but it didn’t feel like it dragged on or was too long. Being outside under the warm sun, smelling the light scents of the different blossom passing past me on the wind, hearing bird song – it was so lovely. From the top of Hanamiyama, we had a quick rest, took photographs and planned our route down using the visitor maps that we received upon entering the park. There were many people eating their lunch and hanging out at the top of the hill, and a few areas on the way up and down where people were eating packed lunches. However, there are no areas to lay a tarp or blanket on the ground and have a picnic, as visitors tend to do in huge parks. On the way down, we passed through the sakura tunnel, which is one of the key photo spots for visitors. There were a lot more people enjoying Hanamiyama on the day of my visit than I was expecting. However, it didn’t feel crowded or overwhelming. There are also many different routes to take through the park and quieter areas which appear to have yet to be discovered by the majority of visitors! I thought that Hanamiyama could never live up to the stunning photographs I had seen over the last 8 months, but it was so much better than could be captured in any number of photos. I can now understand why Mr Abe, the owner, loves this place so much that he decided to hold his wedding reception in the park, on a day with sakura in full bloom, just as they were during my visit. My photos do not do it justice at all, so you’ll have to go and see it for yourself! You might find these pages useful for planning your trip to Hanamiyama. Hope to see you there next year!

Hanamiyama in Full Bloom
Destination Spotlight

Hanami & Hope in Tomioka

The Sakura Tunnel, made up of 400 cherry blossom trees that line Tomioka’s Yonomori district, made the area a well-known hanami (flower-viewing) spot. However, following 3.11, the fantastic cherry trees could no longer be enjoyed in the springtime. That all changed in April 2017. In April 2017, for the first time in 7 years, visitors have been filling the streets throughout the day and during the evening too, for fantastic views of the sakura trees lit up from below. All areas of Tomioka, excluding those labeled as ‘Difficult-to-Return Zone’, had evacuation orders lifted on April 1st 2017, meaning that former residents can now return home, and anybody can stay overnight in the town without applying for permission – something that was not possible prior to April 1st. Over half of the Yonomori district’s beautiful sakura trees stood within Difficult-to-Return Zones, meaning that those visiting the park over in April 2017 weren't able to walk the full length of the former cherry blossom spot. When I visited in April 2017, barricades block entrance to the Difficult-to-Return Zone, but visitors could still enjoy over 100 cherry blossom trees in the area close to the Junior High School. Another area also lit up was on the west side of Yonomori Station - where service will be resumed on March 14 2020, for the first time since the disaster. My visit to this area coincided perfectly with the setting of the sun, meaning that I got to see the flowers in daylight, the warm glow of sunset, and basking in the bright lights of the light-up display. The 900-year-old, 13 meters tall weeping cherry tree inside the grounds of Hosenji Temple was also lit up during my visit. The grounds of this temple have been lovingly looked after and cared for by former-residents who were evacuated to Iwaki since the disaster. For the people of Tomioka, April 2017’s event acted as a symbol of hope of things to come. That being said, the abandoned buildings on either side of the road and the barricades cutting through the centre of the cherry blossom tunnel remained a stark reminder that everything is not exactly as it was. However, as the sky darkened, the barricades and empty houses slid into shadows, and the blossoms slowly began to glitter with light. Standing in the centre of the long road, looking straight at the rows of trees, it was possible for me to imagine how this area would have looked in 2010. Although the light shows of years gone by were held with tourists and visitors from near and far in mind, 2017’s light show was for the people of Tomioka – for those who have returned with cautious hopes, and for those who have not. It is a reminder of the excitement and beauty of the town that these people loved, and still love. A symbol of the blossoming of splendor from the tiniest spaces. The joy of nature and the cycle of spring after winter, of warmth after cold.

Hanami & Hope in Tomioka
Destination Spotlight

Practicing ‘Kengido’ With Kamui Samurai Artists in Aizu

“For many, samurai equals fight scenes in action movies, but that is not all there is to it,” says Tetsuro Shimaguchi during our kengido practice. “To me, samurai culture goes beyond fighting. It is also about the way of living that drives those battles”.His words popped back to mind as I gripped the wooden sword tightly: I inhaled, lifted it, exhaled, and wielded it down firmly with a sudden stop before it touched the ground. The samurai warriors’ graceful fighting on the battlefield was a force of habit. Through drills and practice, they studied each movement to a T, pacing their breath and training their posture. Shimaguchi’s kengido experience for visitors to Japan reveals the efforts, invisible to the untrained eye, that make samurai battles so engrossing.Shimaguchi is no stranger to samurai fight scenes in action movies, however. He choreographed the fight scene in Quentin Tarantino’s Kill Bill Vol I, and has traveled the world performing samurai fight acts with Kamui, his samurai artist collective. He is one of Japan’s top samurai performers, with over 25 years of experience. Now, he has crafted a workshop in his home country to share the values that inspire him to keep the samurai legacy alive.‘Kengido’ (剣伎道) is Shimaguchi’s samurai technique, a mix of martial arts and samurai fighting performance. The term combines three Japanese characters: ‘Ken’ (剣) stands for sword or swordsmanship. For safety, wooden swords (bokken) are used for this practice. ‘Gi’ (伎) refers to an art or method; in this case, a type of performing arts. ‘Do’ (道) is a set of practices or teachings, a process that becomes a way of life.Shimaguchi has been teaching kengido to hundreds of enthusiasts from Florence to Abu Dhabi. He has toured over 150 cities in 35 countries performing with Kamui. “I am lucky to have so many friends around the world”, he says. Anyone can participate in his kengido practice, which can be adapted to different levels of expertise. People of all fitness levels and ages are welcome. The Practice BeginsBefore getting my hands on the sword, I watched a samurai battle between Shimaguchi and another Kamui artist. Through a screen, with editing involved, a fight like this one looks impressive enough, but it is a different experience to see it live. Their movements were completely in tandem: If one turned, the other one got closer, as if they were inexplicably joined by an invisible coordinating force.We opened the practice with an initial greeting. Then, it was my turn to draw the sword. At first, it felt a bit heavy to hold, but I soon got used to its weight. Shimaguchi taught me how to grip the sword, unsheathe it properly, and place my feet as I wielded and thrust it in several directions. Other Kamui artists went over the exercises with me, allowing me to mimic their posture and movements.A vigorous performance consists of fast movements of arms and legs and sudden, firm halts. Rather than blading the sword slowly and delicately, a thrust followed by a sudden stop makes samurai fights dramatic and animated, Shimaguchi explained, as he exemplified the movements with Kazu-san.After some repetition, I gathered pace. Shimaguchi’s guidance helped me strengthen each pose, taking breaks as needed.Time to Face an Opponent (And Work As a Team)After a few drills with the Kamui team, I was comfortable blading the sword in different ways, so it was time to put my newfound skills into a team effort. We would practice fighting together.At first, I thought there would be no way I could coordinate so many steps, but after drilling each sequence a few times with them I grew in confidence.Looking at my partner in the eyes, rather than fixing the gaze on their movements, was a game changer. Soon enough, Kazu-san and I were engrossed in battle, the wooden swords clicking and our movements following a natural sequence with a shared pace.Shimaguchi is a passionate advocate of samurai history and culture, as well as a skillful teacher who inspires the same passion in his apprentices and team. During his kengido experience, you will: Watch a professional samurai fight performance.  Learn a series of sword-wielding movements and exercises. Face both Shimaguchi and other Kamui samurai artists in choreographed battles and training exercises.  Have some time after practice to talk about the experience and ask questions. Receive a video showing your performance.Booking & More InformationThe experience is held at the traditional Japanese inn Ookawaso in Ashinomaki Onsen and includes a stay at its facilities, some meals, and other options, depending on the plan. For more details about booking this experience, please check here.About the Location: Ookawaso in Ashinomaki OnsenWhen Shimaguchi decided to teach kengido in Japan, the region of Aizu was an obvious choice. Aizu was once a vital enclave for a homonymous samurai clan that fought against modernization until the very end, in a famous battle against government forces that destroyed the city’s emblematic Tsurugajo castle and ravaged the city to its core.The castle was rebuilt and visitors to the area can learn of the history of the Aizu samurai clan that ruled over the land for centuries. Nearby attractions, like the Aizu Hanko Nisshinkan (a former samurai school) and the Bukeyashiki (a historical open-air museum and former samurai residence), offer rare glimpses into the everyday life of the samurai. Ookawaso is a traditional Japanese inn in Ashinomaki Onsen, less than an hour south of Aizu-Wakamatsu City (where Tsurugajo castle is located). Guests in Ookawaso can enjoy relaxing in the hot springs, savor traditional Japanese cuisine, and watch shamisen performances on the inn’s traditional Japanese stage that resembles the one featured in the popular anime series Demon Slayer. The hotel offers both Japanese-style and Western-style rooms.This kengido practice is held at the Kamui dojo in Ookawaso, a pristine room made of sakura wood that follows the traditional Japanese aesthetics of the inn.The samurai legacy in Aizu is still very much alive. During your next visit, you can be a part of it as you embody ancient samurai precepts, guided by one of the world's leading samurai artists.Access InformationOokawaso is located 40 minutes by local bus from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station (会津若松駅), or approx. 3.5 hours by car from Tokyo Station. More information about access to Ookawaso here.LinksDiscover Samurai History6 Things to Do at the Aizu Hanko Nisshinkan Samurai SchoolHistorical Samurai Tour2 Days in Aizu-Wakamatsu

Practicing ‘Kengido’ With Kamui Samurai Artists in Aizu
Destination Spotlight

Going to See Aizu-Tajima Gion Festival

WHY IS THERE A GION FESTIVAL IN AIZU-TAJIMA? The most famous Gion Festival takes place every year in Gion, Kyoto. Hundreds of years ago, elite families were moved to various areas around the country. One of these areas was Aizu-Tajima, in Minamia Aizu, Fukushima. The families that moved from Kyoto to Aizu-Tajima had young children who were heartbroken at having to leave their hometown and extended family. Torn about how to appease their homesick, sad children, families decided to hold a traditional Kyoto festival - the Gion festival - in their new town. Advisors were sent to Kyoto to learn the ins and outs of holding a Gion Festival (as well as to receive permission to hold it). After being granted permission and studying up, they returned to Aizu-Tajima, having been promised after Kyoto’s annual Gion Festival that real Kyoto Gion golden crowns would be brought to Aizu-Tajima for use in their own festival. These crowns were to be used in the Aizu-Tajima children’s procession every year. Kyoto’s Gion Festival is earlier than Aizu-Tajima’s, so there was time for the transferral of these crowns. Although not considered a particularly special item in Kyoto, for the people of Tajima, these crowns were incredibly precious, because they signified the authenticity of their festival. WHAT ARE FESTIVAL YATAI? Each of the 4 areas of Aizu-Tajima owns their own festival stall, known as yatai (屋台). The stall of the west area is the oldest, dating from earlier than the 1830s, and is the only yatai to survive terrible fires that occurred in 1772 and 1774. These stalls are considered to be spiritual, having the power to bless their area during festival time. They are used as stages for kabuki performances and play an integral part in the yatai ruckuses which occur between areas on the evening of July 23. The west area’s yatai has beautiful architecture and carvings on the body of the stall. The children of the town can ride on their own area’s yatai during the start of the festival, as their neighbours push it around. Older kids are given the responsibility of calling out festival chants from a megaphone in the back of the stall. It is a great honour for kids to be given the responsibility of shouting festival chants, and younger kids feel jealous over being too young to do this! CHANGING TRADITIONS In days gone by, girls could not touch the shrine or be involved in kabuki performances, and only local people were allowed to participate in the festival, but these rules have been relaxed over time. However one rule hasn't changed: it used to be thought of as bad luck to look down at yatai from a 2nd floor window, as this would equate to looking down on the gods. Even now, this is really frowned upon! MY FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS KID’S KABUKI BY NIGHT Children as young as elementary school year 2 perform in kabuki on top of yatai stands during the afternoon and late into the evening. Before the performances start, performers wait in the back of their respective yatai. I was amazed at how confidently the kids performed. NANAHOKAI PROCESSION I was really excited to see this procession and it did not disappoint! The Nanahokai Procession (七行器行列) takes place early on the morning of July 23. Beautiful women dressed in kimono are accompanied by men in kamishimo. The women accompany 7 offerings to the main shrine in the town, including sake, fish and rice. Unlike the kabuki, which is voluntary, the women to join the Nanahokai Procession are called upon in accordance with a rota of all the families in the area. Even if relatives move away, they are encouraged to return (with their spouses) to participate in the festival. Married women wear black kimono, and unmarried women have bold, bright patterned kimono. It was raining when I visited, but this didn’t impact the enchanting atmosphere of the procession. In years gone by, only women from the town were allowed to join the Nanahokai Procession, but as a result of slow and steady depopulation, all are welcome to apply to walk in the procession – even English teachers who live in nearby towns! It wasn’t just the adults who shone during this procession. Have a look at the very cute kids in the photos below! There were many photo opportunities, as the women walked slowly, and posed for photos after finishing taking the offerings to the shrine. CHILDREN’S PROCESSION As I wrote above, the children’s procession that takes place after the Nanohokai Procession includes replicas of crowns originally brought from the Kyoto Gion Festival every year for Tajima’s children to wear. CHILDREN’S TAIKO DRUMMING Local children perform in front of hundreds of people that gather to see the festival. Their drumming was really good and they were all adorable! VISITING THE SHRINE It is traditional to visit the shrine to pray, and drink doburoku to celebrate. Doburoku is a type of unfiltered sake, which continues to ferment upon drinking! Farming families used to make doburoku at home, but it became illegal due to taxing issues. Being able to drink it at festival festival time is an important tradition for local people! Due to driving, I couldn’t try doburoku unfortunately, but some Brits traveling through Japan really enjoyed it! MIKOSHI PROCESSION The mikoshi (portable shrine) of the town is brought out of the shrine after offerings are brought inside. This shrine blesses the areas it passes through, grants local people with good health, and wards off natural disasters. Aizu-Tajima’s Gion Festival was a fantastic two day trip for me! I didn’t get to see the full 3 days, but maybe I can next year! I definitely recommend it!

Going to See Aizu-Tajima Gion Festival
Destination Spotlight

2 Days in Iwaki

DAY 1 1. IWAKI STATION This example itinerary departs from Iwaki Station. For directions to Iwaki Station see here. I recommend traveling by rental car for this 2 day itinerary. 2. AQUAMARINE FUKUSHIMA Aquamarine Fukushima is an amazing aquarium and research centre which is in some ways very similar to a botanical garden. As well as being captivated by the plants, fish and other forms of sea-life on display around the aquarium, visitors can experience catching fish, preparing them themselves and having them cooked as tempura! (Read more about Aquamarine Fukushima here) 3. LALAMEW Buy souvenirs, have lunch, take a trip on a sightseeing boat which leaves outside, peruse the fresh produce on sale, or learn about the effects of the disaster on Fukushima at the Iwaki Mew-seum on the 2nd floor. (Read more about Lalamew here) 4. HORURU: IWAKI COAL AND FOSSIL MUSEUM See the first elasmosaurid dinosaur to be discovered in Japan – and by a high school student, none the less! Learn about the mining history of Iwaki Yumoto Onsen, and if you visit at the weekend, you can try out some of the activities on offer, such as making your own amber necklace! (You must reserve in advance by email). 5. YUMOTO ONSEN (ACCOMMODATION) Stay overnight at Iwaki Yumoto Onsen, where there are a number of places to eat, and lots of places to take a dip in a hot spring. Yumoto Onsen has been celebrated as a hot spring town since the Heian Era (710-794), and most ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) in the area have their own hot spring bath where you can relax. Private baths can also be rented in a number of establishments! (Read more about Yumoto Onsen here) DAY 2 1. YUMOTO ONSEN START Have breakfast in the ryokan of your choice. 2. WALK AROUND YUMOTO ONSEN The small town is the perfect size for a morning stroll. There are lots of quaint little shops and shrines to explore, and if you’re lucky, you might bump into some of the locals for a chat! 3. SHIRAMIZU AMIDADO TEMPLE Constructed in 1160, this historical Buddhist temple was registered as one of Japan’s National Treasures in 1952. Beautiful at any time of the year, but perhaps especially stunning in Autumn when the leaves turn red, the park surrounding the temple is beautifully kept and well worth a visit. You can also enter the temple, of course, but many people come here for religious reasons, so remember to take off your shoes and turn off your cameras! (Read more about Shiramizu Amidado Temple here) 4. WONDER FARM A large establishment where over ten types of tomatoes are grown throughout the year! Take a bag and pick as many tomatoes as you can fit in, then visit the souvenir and food shop next door. If you have time, and the weather is nice, you could even have a picnic or BBQ in the open facility outside. There’s also a restaurant on the premises with local fresh vegetables available in the buffet, and wood-fire pizzas available to take out. (Read more about Wonder Farm here) 5. IWAKI STATION Finish off your trip in central Iwaki!

2 Days in Iwaki
Destination Spotlight

2 Day Road Trip to Oku-Aizu

Aizu is a very large area of Fukushima Prefecture, so it may be difficult to decide whereabouts to go! I have created a model 2 day itinerary which you could follow as part of your visit to Fukushima Prefecture. Renting a car is necessary for this suggested itinerary. DAY 1 1. AIZU-WAKAMATSU STATION Aizu-Wakamatsu City is a good starting point for visiting Fukushima Prefecture, as it is a city with a lot of history and culture. 2. ENZOJI TEMPLE Built around 1300 years ago, Enzoji Temple is a beautifully crafted Buddhist temple that looks down over the Tadami River, surrounded by trees that turn bright colors in the autumn. Reach Enzoji Temple in 30 minutes from Aizu Wakamatsu. 3. NO. 1 TADAMI RIVER BRIDGE VIEWPOINT The No. 1 Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint is one of the most famous photo spots in the whole of Fukushima Prefecture, offering stunning views no matter the season or weather. This viewpoint is 15 minutes away from Enzoji Temple. 4. HAYATO ONSEN Whilst you’re in the area, I recommend taking a dip in the relaxing waters of Tsuru-no-yu Onsen. This bath facility that is open to the public for many hours a day, and looks out over the beautiful, blue Tadami River. See here for the location of Tsuru-no-yu. It takes 15 minutes to drive here from the viewpoint. 5. WONDER AROUND MISHIMA TOWN Mishima is a quaint town, voted as one of the most picturesque in Japan. It's well worth exploring on foot. Central Mishima Town is a 10 minute drive from Tsuru-no-yu. 6. ONSEN TOWN Stay the night in an onsen town such as Mishima Town or Kaneyama Town. Take a look at Oku-Aizu's website for inspiration.    DAY 2 1. OUCHI-JUKU This village was one of the post towns established under the post station system during the Edo Period. The buildings still stand as they have for hundreds of years. There is a great viewpoint from where you can see the rows of houses and there are also a number of restaurants that sell delicious local food, such as the famous local dish 'negi-soba'. Ouchi-juku is a 75 minute drive from Kaneyama Town. 2. TO-NO-HETSURI A national natural monument, To-no-Hetsuri consists of cliffs overlooking a river, which have been slowly eroded away to create an extremely unique cliff-face. It takes around 20 minutes to reach To-no-Hetsuri from Ouchi-juku. 3. YUNOKAMI ONSEN STATION Check out the foot bath outside Yunokami Onsen Station, or step inside to browse some souvenirs. If you visit in winter, you'll be able to heat yourself up by the traditional irori sunken hearth. Yunokami Onsen Station is a 10 minute drive from To-no-Hetsuri. 4. ASHINOMAKI ONSEN STATION Ashinomaki Onsen Station is one of the one train stations in Japan to have a feline station master! He finishes work at 4 pm, so be sure to get there before then, and (if you can) check with him in advance to make sure he hasn’t changed his working hours recently! Ashinomaki Onsen Station is a 20 minute drive from Yunokami Onsen. 5. AIZU-WAKAMATSU Finish your trip back in Aizu-Wakamatsu, or perhaps start the next part of your journey here. Aizu-Wakamatsu is a 30 minute drive from Ashinomaki Onsen Town.

2 Day Road Trip to Oku-Aizu
Destination Spotlight

Stumbling upon Traditional Japan in Nanokamachi-dori

Dotted around Nanokamachi-dori Street (Aizu-Wakamatsu City) stand a number of extremely old buildings. Coming to this area of the city feels like stepping back in time, especially at quieter times of day. Many of the warehouses and factories that stand on Nanokamachi-dori are still used to this day, and some allow visitors in for a tour. During my visit to Aizu-Wakamatsu City, I visited two of these factories. 1. YAMADA ORIMOTO COMPANY When I saw this written on my itinerary, I wasn’t sure I would find it interesting. But on approaching the factory, I realized my assumptions had been hasty. Yamada Orimoto’s main office is tucked away down a long alley. When we first arrived, I couldn’t believe we were in the right place. The main office space looks like an old Japanese house, and even includes a small shop in it, where you can view and buy products made at the factory. YAMADA ORIMOTO’S HISTORY The Yamada Orimoto Company dates back to the start of the Edo Period (1603-1868), meaning that cotton has been produced by Yamada Orimoto for over 400 years. Aizu momen (Aizu cotton) products are still greatly valued for their high quality and their traditional manufacturing techniques. Everything produced at Yamada Orimoto is made using the same techniques that have been practised here for over 100 years, and the machinery is also old. I asked the owner whether it would be more efficient to use newer machines for weaving. He told me that it would, and that present day technology would reduce the need for so many people to work at the factory at one time. But the traditional way Yamada Orimoto’s products are made are one of the things that give them their charm and high quality. VISITING THE FACTORY We were allowed to take a look at the factory unsupervised by the owner. What we found left me speechless. Around five women were working at the time of our visit, each women devoted to her task and part of the production process. Unlike any shop or office I have visited in Japan, there were no calls of “irasshaimase” (welcome) as we entered. It was like being a fly on the wall. For fear of breaking their concentration, I didn’t interview the workers, but I spent a lot of time watching them go about their daily tasks. It was a really fun experience and completely different from anywhere I had been before. 2. SUEHIRO SAKE BREWERY The second factory that we visited was Suehiro Sake Brewery, which was just around the corner from Yamada Orimoto. One of the largest and most well-known sake producers in Tohoku, Suehiro’s sake is of such a high quality that it has been designated the official sake of Toshogu Shrine in Nikko, and has won numerous national and international awards over the years. The brewery was founded in 1850 and has been passed down from generation to generation. Suehiro Sake Brewery’s traditional method for sake-making by slow, open fermentation is called ‘yamahai’. At Suehiro Sake Brewery certain sakes are stored for longer than the traditional period (1 year), allowing them to age and mature. The brewery produces a range of interesting sake-based products, including sparkling sake, spicy sake, bath lotion containing sake extract, and curry sauce made with sake. There is even a cute little café by the brewery’s entrance which sells small meals, coffee and desserts, nearly all of which have sake incorporated into the recipes! GUIDED TOUR There are guided tours around the brewery and old residential building attached to it. These run every half an hour, but are only in Japanese. Please note that you can’t view the factory unaccompanied. I didn’t understand much of the technical details of the brewing process explained during the tour, because of my lack of booze and fermenting-related vocabulary, but seeing the different areas of the factory were enjoyable all the same. SAKE TASTING After the tour, you can do a sake tasting experience – refills allowed! The sake-tasting takes place in the shop section of the building, giving you ample time to browse gifts you could take home, whilst your friends are getting drunk with the rest of the tour group! I enjoyed visiting these two factories to see how cotton and sake have been made for hundreds of years. It made me reflect back to my own country, where businesses that specialize in one single trade are becoming more and more difficult to find…

Stumbling upon Traditional Japan in Nanokamachi-dori
Top